UCalvin klein: imbali yembali

Mhlawumbi yonke i-fashionista ehloniphayo inesigqoko sayo sincinci into eyodwa kumyili, ovelisa iimpahla phantsi kwegama elifanayo igama likaCalvin K lein. Iingubo zalo mqondiso ziye zisoloko zihamba ngesinyathelo esinye kwisimo sefashoni, esiye savumela ukuba sichaze iifashthi ngokwayo. Kodwa yintoni ibali eliyimpumelelo yalo mbhali? Siza kuthetha ngale nto kweli nqaku lemihla "uCalvin K lein: imbali yelwimi."

NgoNovemba 19, 1942 eUnited States of America, ebizwa kwisixeko esidumile saseNew York, wazalwa uKelvin Klein. Uyise kaKelvin wayengumnini wevenkile encinci. Ngombulelo kumakhulukazi, uKelvin wafunda indlela yokugubha umshini wokuthunga, unina wamnceda ukuba abe nomdla ongenakulungile, bahlala beza kwiivenkile zokugqoka kunye nabaxhasi. Le nkwenkwe yayihlala rhoqo xa ithetha ngeendlela kunye nefashoni. UKelvin Klein uthi ngo-5 wayephupha ngekamva lomklamo wefashini. Ngoko ke, wayengenayo indawo yokufunda kunye nalapho ahamba khona emva kwesikolo.

Phakathi kwezona zinto zigqwesileyo eziphumelele kwiSikolo soBugcisa boBugcisa. Emva koko ngo-1960-1962 wangena waza wafunda kwi-Technology Institute Institute of Fashion. Ngokufanayo kunye nezifundo zakhe, uCalvin wayesebenza kwi studio, apho wancedisa ukwenza iingubo. Emva koko kwafuneka asebenze kunye nabaqulunqi abaninzi kwaye baze bafake imifanekiso yabantu abadlulayo-ngezitalato. Lo msebenzi wawubaluleke kakhulu kumava, njengoko ayengenanga imali eninzi. Iimveliso zamahhala zikaCalvin ezibandakanya ukudalwa kwayo kwiphothifoliyo.

Imbali yesiqalo yaqala ngowama-1968, xa uKelvin kunye nomhlobo wakhe omdala uBarry Schwarz bahlela uCalvin Klein, Ltd eNew York. UBarry wanikela ngemali, kwaye uKelvin wayenasoloko eselinayo ingcamango enye. U-Klein wenza iqoqo lakhe lokuqala waza wagqiba ekubeni alibeke ehotele kwenye yeepansi. Ngolunye usuku, umlawuli we-boutique, okhoyo kumgangatho ongasentla, wadibanisa amaqhosha kwi-elevator waza wangena phantsi phantsi apho kukho imifanekiso. Iqoqo leKelvin lathintela umninimzi-shishini kangangokuba wenza isigqibo sokukhawuleza ukubeka umyalelo weedola ezingama-50 zamawaka. Kuba uKelvin Klein wayexhamla kwihlabathi lakhe, igama lakhe laba lidumo, kwaye ke ukuzimela kwezinto ezibonakalayo kwavela.

U-Klein waqalisa umsebenzi we-studio yakhe kunye nokuqokelela kweengubo zangaphandle kwindoda, kodwa ngokuthe ngcembe wathatha isakhiwo sempahla yabasetyhini. Kwiminyaka yama-70, wavula isambulo samadoda ngenani lomfazi. Ngowe-1970, uCalvin wakhulula iingubo ezincinci zokubamba iingubo ezimbini, okanye okuthiwa yiPeCoCoat (ingubo yepaa). Lo mzekelo uye waba yinto ekhethiweyo yenkathi, ngaphezu koko, iye yafashisa kwiminyaka eyi-10 ezayo.

UKelvin ngo-1973 wathola ibhaso elithi "Kochi" ekudalweni kwengubo ecocekileyo neyodwa. Ngoko ke wayengumqambi omdala wokuqala kwimbali yefashini ukufumana eli bhaso.

Kwaye ngowe-1974, umyili wenziwe iqoqo elitsha leengubo zobuncwane kunye nezixhobo. Kungekudala, wakhathala ngokuhamba ngendlela efanelekileyo, kwaye uKlein wagqiba ekubeni alungiselele "ukuqhuma" kokuqala, okwenkqisayo ngokupheleleyo umhlaba wefashoni kunye nemigaqo yokuziphatha yaseMelika. Ekugqibeleni, ngo-1978 kwaphawulwa ngokukhishwa kweejay design, kwaye apha umqambi waba ngowokuqala. Iingubo ezicatshulwa imihla ngemihla kwaye zithengi ngokwaneleyo, wabanikela njengezambatho zentsha ephathekayo kunye nefestile. Umnqophiso ocacileyo wawucacisiwe ngokucacileyo ngumfanekiso kwaye wenza ugxininiso kubude kunye nemilenze emilenze, uphawu lweCalvin Klein kunye ne-Omega logo lubekwe kwipokotshi elingemuva.

UKelvin wagqiba ekubeni enze isikhangiso esichukumisayo. Kwaye, ngowe-1980, umyili wezobugcisa ngoncedo lomfaki-zithombe uBruce Weber wadala iphosta yokukhangisa yeeans kunye neBrooke Shields, eyaba ngumqondiso wesondo kunye neenkwenkwezi ze-movie. Emva koko e-America, i-scandal yaqhekeza, uKlein wasolwa ngokusebenzisa abancinci, kwaye kuthiwa ukutshitshiswa kwakusondeleyo koonwabo. Ukurhoxisa i-jeans kwimveliso, i-scandal yachithwa, kwaye inkampani yakwazi ukubuyela kwimodeli esele i-classics kuphela ngo-1998.

Ngowe-1982, iKlein yavelisa iqoqo elitsha, elibandakanya izambatho zangaphantsi zabantu, oko kwakubandakanya i-corset enkulu kunye neCalvin Klein brand logo. Kwindima yemifanekiso yokuthengisa ngaphantsi kweengubo, i-supermodel D. I-West kunye nomqambi uMark Mark bakhethwa, kunye nomzimba wesilisa onesiqingatha-weze waba yinto yokuqala yobugcisa. U-Klein wachaza ukuba wenza iingubo zangaphantsi ukwenza abantu babe ngongqingili.

Ngama-80s, umyili wayigxile ekuphuhliseni nasekuveliseni ijee kunye neengubo zangaphantsi. Ukuthengiswa akuzange kudlule ngaphandle kwama-scandals, sele sele eyinxalenye yomfanekiso womyili. U-Klein kwafuneka ahlawule i-dollar yesigidi, ebeka icawa kwipowusta "Isidlo sokugqibela saseKlein." Wayephethe ibali leBhayibhile eliyaziwayo, kodwa iimodeli zalo zazingekho kwii jeans kunye nezidumbu ze-naked naked bodies.

Ngo-1992, uKelvin waphinde wamangazelela iMelika. Kulo nyaka wadala isitala esitsha yolutsha "u-unisex", owathi wathandwa kakhulu. Emva koko, njengesikhangiso, iphosta ephethe umzekelo omncinci uKate Moss kunye nomqambi uMark Mark wakhululwa. Izambatho kunye ne logo kaCalvin Klein zinokugqithwa ngabantu abancinci besini na, le ngcamango yafunyanwa ngempumelelo enkulu.

Ngomnyaka we-1999, umyili, ngexesha le-umpteenth, wacaphukisa i-scandal entsha ngeentengiso. U-Klein wakhulula iqoqo elitsha elimele iimpahla zangaphantsi zezingane, kunye neengubo zangaphantsi zentsha. Iifoto nabantwana babecatshangelwa kakhulu. Ngenxa yoko, umyili wancenga uxolo, kwaye umkhankaso wokupapashwa unqunyanyisiwe ukuze kungabikho zigxeke.

Ibhizinisi lalisendleleni, kwaye inkampani kaKlein yayingekho ngaphantsi kweso studio encinci, kodwa yajika yaba yimbuso yezigidi eziliqela, ingeniso yonyaka malunga ne-$ 5 billion. Ukuhanjiswa okuchanekileyo kokumaketha kunye nomgaqo-nkqubo kuye kwadala umfanekiso ocacileyo, amaqumrhu afake ngokungqongqo kwi-subconscious yabathengi. Ingquzulwano kunye neengxabano zanceda ngokukhawuleza ukudala nokugcina imifanekiso yokukhangisa, isiqendu sayo esasiyinto enhle, ubutsha kunye nobulili. UKelvin Klein uthathwa njengomyili wokuqala wokugqoka abantu "ukusuka entloko ukuya enyaweni," kwiingqokelela zakhe kwakukho iimpahla zangaphantsi kunye nezixhobo. Emva kokuzimelela e-USA nakumazwe aseYurophu, kwi-90s inkampani yaqala ukufudukela ngasempuma, i-boutiques yavulwa e-Kuwait, eJakarta naseHong Kong.

UKlein wasabela ngokukhawuleza ekutshintshelweni kwemifashiselo yehlabathi, eyamnceda ukuba afumane impumelelo enkulu. Ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-XXI, wavelisa iqoqo elitsha kwindlela "yempi". Kungekudala umyili wamkhipha isambatho-sambatho, iingubo-iidolo, izikhwele emadolweni e-khaki.

Ukongezelela kwengubo, uCalvin wakhulula igrume elincinci, elowo elo libandakanya ukuvumba kwamadoda nabesifazane. Ngowe-1983 kwavela "u-Eternity", ngowe-1985 - "Ukuqaphela", ngo-1986 - "Otdushina". Iimimoya ezigxininisa isitala esincinci seengubo, zisenempumelelo enkulu, ngoko zineentlobo ezininzi. Ngomnyaka ka-1998, i-"roma "yakhishwa, ibe ekugqibeleni yaba yindumi, kwaye yabalwa kubantu abajongene neengxaki zabo.