Imbali yesiqhelo saseRussia yaqala, njengoko bethetha, "kwimpilo". Abaqhumisi belizwe langaphandle, abazange banenhlanhla kwilizwe labo, bathuthela eRashiya, apho bavelele khona amandla kunye nokuphambili. Ewe, kunye neRussia "iindumiso", ngokufunda ngempumelelo kwelinye izwe okanye basebenza njengabafundi, "banikezela" ilizwe labo ilizwe iitalente zabo: i-rustic perfumery - imveliso enamakha iya kuba yanda kakhulu. Ekupheleni kweXIX - ekuqaleni kwe-XX leminyaka, amagama ka-A. Ferrein aqubuzela kulo lonke ilizwe, kwaye ababoneleli beNkundla yama-Imperial - A. Ostroumov, G. Brokar, A. Ralle kunye no-A. Siu - babengaziwa kuphela eRashiya, kodwa nakwamanye amazwe. Ngoko, uAlexandro Ostroumov waba udumo ngokusungula isepha kwi-dandruff, kwaye kamva wavula ifowuni yakhe.
" Iimpumlo " ezidumile "i- Alfons Ralle " yanika i-Perfume ye-Perfume - imveliso enamakha, kungekhona nje kwiNkundla yama-Imperial, kodwa nakwiNkosana yakhe i-Shah yasePersia kunye noPhakamileyo bakhe iPrince Chernogorsky. Isakhelo sakhe samkela uMbuso weRashiya waseRussia amaxesha amane - ibhaso eliphezulu, linikezelwa ngemveliso ephezulu. Kwakusefektri "A. Ralle kunye neCh "yaqala njengomncedisi wezobhoratri u-Ernest Bo (umbhali weCanel owaziwayo uNombolo 5). Ukuba kwakungengenxa yenguqulelo eyenza umthengisi onetalente ahambe, wayeza kuthatha isikhundla somlawuli wenkampani, kwaye awaziwa ukuba yiyiphi indlela yokulungelelaniswa kwe "ipaki yokuqhumisa umhlaba". Olunye ikhadi lempondo eliphambi kokuguqula iRussia nge-parfumery - uHeinrich Brokar. Le "mpumlo" yelifa "ngumthonyama waseFransi. Ukufika eRashiya, wavula intsebenzo yakhe kwaye ekuqaleni waqala ukuvelisa i-perfume, kodwa isepha ecocekileyo. Abaninzi emsebenzini wakhe, uHenry unomkakhe - uCharlotte. Nguye owamshukumisela ukuba anqobe ngokuphumelela: ukuthengisa isepha esincinci "isipho" sobunzima obungavamile) - efana nebhola kunye neencwadi eziprintiweyo zealfabhethi. Brokarovskaya ukukhangisa kuye kwaba yintetho. Ekuvuleni kwelinye leentengiso ezinikezelwa ngabathengi "ukuthengiswa kweentengiso: kuphela i-ruble kwakunokwenzeka ukuthenga isethi esinezinto ezilishumi, ezibandakanya i-perfume, i-cologne, i-lustrine, iviniga yangasese, i-vaseline, i-powder, i-puff, i-sachet, i-lipstick, isepha. Injabulo yayinokuthi amapolisa kufuneka avalwe ivenkile.
Olunye uhlobo lweentengiso zaseRashiya - iimveliso ezinamakha - i-cologne "I-Flower" - nayo yazamazama yonke iMoscow. Kwimiboniso Yomsebenzi WaseRussia kunye neMiboniso Yobungcali "kwakhiwa umthombo onobukrakra", apho umntu angayifaka khona umkhonto, iglavu kunye neengubo zeqhwa. Le ngcamango yaphumelela kangangokuthi "i-Flower" yaba ngu-first cologne yaseRashiya. Xa u-Alexander Aleksandrovna Omkhulu uDussia efika eMoscow, wafika wamhambisa ngeentyantyambo ze-wax - iirase, iinduli zentlambo, i-violets, i-daffodils. Kwaye nganye intyatyambo yaxhamla ngevumba elifanayo. I-Admired Maria Aleksandrovna yanikezela umthengisi umsizi wecandelo lomthengisi wenkundla yakhe.
Intsebenziswano "ye-Brokar ne-Co" iye yanda kakhulu kangangokuba i-Russian rusco yayibizwa ngokuthi "i-Brokar Empire", kunye nesiqhumiso sayo sithengiswa kwiintlobo ezininzi zaseYurophu. Kwiimiboniso ezahlukahlukeneyo zamazwe ngamazwe, umzi ofumene iindondo zegolide ezili-14, waba ngumthengisi nje kuphela kwiNkundla yaseRussia yaseNtshonalanga, kodwa nakwindlu yasebukhosini yaseSpain, kwaye kwi-signboard yenkampani kukho izibonakaliso ezintathu zelizwe, eziqinisekisa umgangatho ophezulu weempahla.
Ukuba u-Brokar waqala njengesepha, u-Adolf Siu - njengomenzi weengqungquthela kunye namaqebelengwane. Ukuba nenzuzo ehle kakhulu kwi-confectionery shishini, uSuu wanquma ukwenza i-parfumery kwaye waphumelela kule shishini ukuba waqala ukunikezela iNkundla yeMpephaza kungekhona nje ngeentliziyo zakhe, kodwa ngeengqumba. Isiqhumiso sakhe sasiyinxalenye ye "iphunga eliphakamileyo" kwaye yayingekho kuwo wonke umntu. Ngamafutshane, i-shishini leqhumiso kwiRashiya yangaphambi kokuguquka. Kwaye ke unyaka we-1917 waphuma ...
Ama-actresses ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-XX malunga nemimoya ka-A. Ostroumov, uEkaterina Geltser, umdanso weBolshoi u-dancer: "Xa ndidansa kwi" Corsair ", ndihlala ndisebenzisa i-perfume Violette ..." U-Elena Podolskaya, i-opera soloist: "Iziqhumiso zakho" zizungeze , ukuba, ngokubakhuthaza, ndihamba, njengamaphupha eentyatyambo ezinqabileyo. " URaisa Reisen, umlingisi we-Maly Theatre: "Ukuba uNapoleon wayebethelwa nguNapoleon onobuqili, uJoseph wayengeke amkhonze."
Phoenix, uzalwa kwakhona emlonyeni
I-Russia-Post-revolutionary ... Kwi-ajenda: ukupheliswa kwe-bourgeois. Kwaye kubandakanya ukucoceka kwezinto - iindawo ezininzi zokuvelisa izityalo ze-bourgeois. Eli lizwe elitsha liphefumula umsi weefektri, i-sweat esebenza kakuhle kunye nomzimba ococekileyo. Amasosha aseLwandle obomvu kunye nabantu badinga isepha kuphela - kwaye akukho nto. Eminye imingxuma ye-bourgeois. Ngenxa yoko, zonke iifrikansi zefriji zafumana amanani o-ordinal kwaye zatshintshwa zibe yi-bins-bins. Inkampani Ralle yaba "isityalo seSoap yaseNtsholongwane ka-4", kwaye kamva-iSoap State kunye neCosmetic Factory "iSvoboda". "Brokar" yajika ibe "isepha kaRhulumente kunye nenombolo yesityalo sesiqhumiso sesi-5" (kamva "kwiZarya entsha"), "Siu" - kwipetroli "iBolshevik", "iBodlo kunye neCo" - kwipetroli "Dawn".
Ngexesha le-NEP, ukuveliswa kweqhumiso kwaqalisa kwakhona, kodwa kwixesha laseStalin laphela ngokukhawuleza-kungadingekile. Owesifazane obalaseleyo kwiSoviet elite, "owesibini umfazi wase-USSR", umfazi waseMolotov, uPolina Zhemchuzhina, wajoyina "umzabalazo" noStalin wokungcola kwekhaya. Watshintsha umlawuli wokuqala we "Utsha olutsha" A. Zvezdov, udluliselwe kwenye indawo. Kamva, i-Pearl yayihamba ngethemba lokuthi "Ukutya", ukudibanisa zonke iifriji ze-fragrery kunye nezimonyo, kwaye kwiminyaka emininzi kamva waqeshwa njengomphathi weGosa eliPhezulu leqhumiso, izimonyo, imboni yokwenza izinto kunye nesepha. KwakunguPolina Zhemchuzhina owakwazi ukunyanzela uSalin ukuba angaqothule iqhumiso, wakwazi ukubonisa ukuba "i-parfumery yindawo ethembisayo, inenzuzo kwaye iyimfuneko ebantwini". Kwaye wenza ukuba "uyise wezizwe" anike "okulungileyo" kwi-perfume yeoli efunekayo. Ngoko iRussia yokucoceka i-parfumery yafumana isibini, ubomi obufanelekileyo.
Ngomnyaka we-1930, ubuchwepheshe be-parfumery yaseRashiya - iimveliso ezinamakha kunye nemveliso - amasebe angcolileyo ngamashishini "iSvoboda" kunye ne "Bolshevik" athatyathwa yi-"Dawn Dawn". Ngaloo ndlela "iNtshonalanga entsha" yafumana i-monopoly on the product of the product. Kwakukho ezinye iifrikanti zokuqhumisa kunye nezonyuka kwiiRiphabliki ze-Union, kodwa azichazi ukuba "ipolisi yenkqubo".
Kwi-ajenda yemveliso yefriji kwakukho umbuzo obalulekileyo: njani ukuqinisekisa ukuba imimoya ibonakalisa ipolisi yombutho? Yayisetyenziselwa umgaqo ophezulu: libale ngeemichiza kunye nezixube ezingavamile. Ama-aromas ayadingeka ngabantu abasebenzayo, oko kuthetha ukuba kufuneka kube lula, kuqondakala kwaye "ukuqinisa uthando kuMama waseMlandeni". Abantu abaninzi namhlanje bayaqaphela ukuba imimoya yamaSoviet yayininzi kwaye ibuhlungu, kwaye ipalalet enomlilo yayiswelekile.
Nangona kunjalo, ngokuthe ngcembe, inyathelo ngesinyathelo i-parfumery yasekhaya "iphumelele" kwiindawo ezilahlekileyo. Ukusuka kwi-brokar "iibhinki" bebekhohliwe iifomula, "iifom" zasemakhaya zithatyathwa ukuzama, indawo ye "elite perfumery" yaphuhliswa. UPhoenix wazalwa kwakhona emlonyeni. Ngokwemvelo, i-violin yokuqala idlalwe yi-"Dawn Dawn", imimoya yakhe yayithandwa kakhulu (kubakho, akukho phiswano, kunye neziganeko zangaphandle azizange ziphuphe ummi waseSoviet). Le nkampani yabonisa iziqulatho zayo kwiimiboniso zamazwe ngamazwe kwaye yafumana namabhaso aphezulu. Namhlanje, iqela elidumileyo le-perfume - "i-Red Moscow", "ibhokisi elimnyama", "Blue Casket", "Stone Flower" Ummandla waseRashiya ococekileyo wenyuka, kunye naliphi na ishishini emva kwe "Iron Curtain" ngokungabikho komncintiswano omkhulu. Kodwa ngoku kwavela enye indudumo - ubunzima bezoqoqosho, ukwehla kwemveliso, ukuwa kwe-USSR ...
Kwakhona ukususela ekuqaleni
Xa ukuhamba kweemveliso zaseNtshona zithengiswa kwimakethe yasekhaya, iinkampani zaseRussia ezivelisa i-rustic perfumery - iimveliso ezinamakha azikwazanga ukuma ukhuphiswano kwaye zaya emthunzini. Ewe, emva kokuwa kweemveliso, abaphathi baseRashiya kwakufuneka baqale "ukusuka ekuqaleni" -kufunda ukusuka eNtshona, ukukhumbula "iindlela zezitatomkhulu" nokuzama ukwakha indlela yabo kwimihlaba yokucoca i-perehozhennom. Nangona kunjalo, ukuvuselela izithethe zokuqhumisa iziqhumiso ngumsebenzi ongenambulelo. Iifomula zaphuhliswa ikhulu leminyaka edlulileyo kwaye zisekelwe kuphela kwinani elincinci lezithako zendalo, ngoku ziphelile kwaye "zikhangele", ubuncinci, ezangezidala. Ii-laboratories zasekhaya zasekhaya zingaphantsi kweNtshona ngokubhekiselele kwizixhobo kwaye abanako ukukwazi ukudala izixhobo ezicwangcisiweyo zangaphambili. Ukongezelela, ezininzi izinto ezingekho mthethweni ezivelisa iimveliso ezinobulunga obuncinane ziye zazala, kwaye kubonakala inani elikhulu leefakes. Ngenxa yoko, umthengi waseRashiya wagqiba ukulahlekelwa ithemba kwi "brand" yamanqaku kwaye ukhetha ukusebenzisa iimveliso zeenkampani zaseNtshona. Namhlanje, iziqhumiso zasekhaya zifana nomntwana ongenangqiqo. Imizamo engaqinisekanga yokubaluleka komthengi iyenziwa yi-"Dawn Dawn", okanye kunoko, isilwanyana sayo esilandelayo - "iNewle Etoile". Iziqhumiso zangaphambili ngamanye amaxesha ziyesabisa ngamagama abo angabonakaliyo. "Ixesha leNkwenkwekazi", "I-Mania yobusuku", "Ehle kakhulu", "I-Shaman Charming", "Ubomi kwiPinki", "Ndilandele Ebusuku" - isandi efana nokuhleka. Kwezinye iziqhumiso, iingcali zithi, "ukuthunga" kweemimoya zaseNtshona zivakala: "I-Kuznetsk bridge" ifana neClimmat esuka eLancome, "ubuhle baseRussia" - kuCoco Mademoiselle esuka kuChanel, "I-Talisman yothando" - kwiNgelosi nguTyerry Mugler. Uyilo lweepakethi kunye neebhotile-ezibambileyo nezingabonakaliyo-zininzi eziphantsi kokuyila kwamanye amazwe. Ewe, kwaye ukuthengisa kushicilela kakhulu. Ngamagama, ukuba amafemu asekhaya agqiba ukugqiba kwakhona umthengi (kunye nemveliso yamanye amazwe alawula ngaphezu kwe-60% yeRashiya "inqabileyo" kwimarike namhlanje), umzabalazo unzima. Nangona kunjalo, "inkulungwane yesithathu" yeRussia yokuqhumisa iqala nje, kwaye, mhlawumbi, iya kuphinda ifike kwiindawo eziphakamileyo, apho yaye yawa khona.
NOUVELLE ETOILE
Akuyona inkampani yangaphandle, kodwa "yethu entsha". Inkampani iye yasebenzisana namaqabane aseFransi iminyaka elishumi, kwaye iziqholo ezininzi zefektri ziphuhliswa kwiibhubhribhu zaseFransi. Ukuqhubela phambili kokubambisana kwale ntsebenziswano kwakuyi-renaming yenkampani.