Ngokuqhelekileyo asizithengi ezi zinto okanye ezinye iimveliso zonyango ngenxa nje yokuba sinoyiko ngamagama anzima ahlukeneyo. Kubonakala ngathi yonke into engaziwayo ibangela ingozi kwimpilo. Kodwa oku akunjalo. Ngoko, umboniso ngesihloko: i-chemistry kwi-cosmetics inceda kuwo onke amabhinqa. Sinelungelo lokukwazi oko sikuthengayo.
I-AHA (i-alpha-hydroxy acids) i-acid acids equle kwizityalo kunye neziqhamo. Ziye zithathwa njengenye yezona zixhobo ezikhuselekileyo zokukhupha iikhemikhali, ekubeni zitshitshisi ikhumba, kodwa zibangele ukutshatyalaliswa kwemvelo kweeseli ezilalisiweyo. Kwinkxalabo encinci yincinci yezinto ezininzi ezenziwa ekhaya. Ngokuqhelekileyo, kunye ne-ANA-acids, izimonyo ziqulethe i-BHA-acids (i-beta-hydroxy acids) -salicylic acid, engafaniyo ne-AHA ingena kwii-pores ize ikhuphe iiseli eziqokelela ngaphakathi kweengqungquthela ezihlambulukileyo.
I-Antioxidants yinto ekhusela iiseli zesikhumba kwimiphumo emibi ye-radicals kunye nezinye izinto ezibonakala ngathi ngenxa yempembelelo yendalo yenyama. I-antioxidants eziphambili ezisetyenziselwa izimonyo zi-vithamini A, C, E, i-trace elements, selenium, i-zinc, i-extracts ze-algae.
I-acid ye-Hyaluronic - enye yezona zinto zisebenzayo kakhulu kwi-moisturizers, isetyenziswa ngokubanzi kwiiplastiki zomjikelezo. Inxulumene nolusu, njengoko luyinxalenye ebalulekileyo yeethambo ezixhamlayo ze-epidermis. Ngaba unako ukugcina ama-molecule yamanzi, kodwa ngokungafani ne-glycerin igcina ikhono layo lokunyumba kunye nefom "emile".
I-Glycerin inempahla ekhethekileyo ukutsala nokugcina iamolekyuli zamanzi. Yisebenzise kuphela ngabahlaziyili, ngoko-ke ayinceda kuphela isikhumba ngamanzi, kodwa ikhusela nokukhuphuka kwayo. Kwizicumbiso, enye i-molecule ye-glycerin ibhalise ubuncinane ubuncinane be-molecule zamanzi ezili-10.
I-ceramide zizinto ezenza umgca we-lipid umgca wesikhumba. Ukukhusela kwimpembelelo yangaphandle kunye nokunyanzelisa amanzi. Zizizalisa ngokonakaliso kwinqanaba lomhlaba kwaye zandise ukwanda kwe-epidermis. Ngokuqhelekileyo zisetyenziselwa iziqhumiso zesikhumba esomileyo kunye neyomileyo kunye nemveliso yeenwele.
I-Collagen - iprotheyini ephambili yeethambo ezixhamlayo ze-epidermis, ixanduva lokuxhuma kunye nokuqina kwesikhumba. Ukusetyenziswa ngokubanzi kwimveliso yokuguga. Inomphumela wokuvuselela ngamandla, kwindlela ejoliswe kuyo iyanciphisa unobunzima obunzima.
I-Coenzyme iyinxalenye ye-bioactive, umthombo obalulekileyo wamandla ngenani leempembelelo zokuxiliswa komzimba kunye nesikhumba. I-Coenzyme ihlanganiswa kwisibindi somntu ngamnye, kodwa ngokudala, imveliso yayo iyancipha. Kwi-cosmetology, i-coenzyme Q10 isetyenziswe kwimishanguzo yokuguga.
Nanoparticles - izakhi ezisebenzayo kunye nesisindo esincinci se-molecular, ngenxa yokuba banako ukukwazi ukungena ngokukhawuleza kwiindawo ezinzulu ze-epidermis. Ubungakanani be-nanoparticle buhluka ukusuka kwi-1 ukuya kwi-100 nanometers, kwaye i-nanometer eyi-1 yi-0.000000001 yamitha. INanoparticles zenziwe kuphela ngeendlela zokwenza izinto. Kwaye namhlanje i-nanocosmetics yileyunithi entsha kakhulu yezobugcisa.
I-Odorants ingumxube wezinto ezinamakha, umsebenzi wabo ukufihla ngezinye izihlandlo kungeyona nto ekhangayo kakhulu yendalo. Iphunga elithozamisayo lenza ukuba i-makeup ikhangele ngakumbi, kodwa kufanelekile ukukhumbula ukuba yi-fragrances edla ngokuba yimbangela yokuphendula okwenziwe ngesikhumba kwizonyiso.
I-Parabens yindalo yokugcina izityalo ezongezela ubomi be-shelf yeemveliso zezonyakatho. Ngokwezibalo, kwimiqathango eyahlukeneyo isetyenziswe kwi-85% yemveliso. Ngexesha elidlulileyo, izazinzulu zixubushe ngokugqithiseleyo umbandela weenzuzo kunye nobungozi bemigudu yomzimba, kodwa abazange bafike kwizigqibo ezingafaniyo. Nangona kunjalo, oku kwakhokelela ekubonakaleni kwezonyango kunye nezilondolozo zemvelo.
Ii-Provitamins ziyizondlo zokuqala eziguqulwa zibe ngamavithamini emzimbeni. I-Provitamin A yi-carotene, kunye ne-provitamin B-5 ngu-D-phenolol.
Iiprotheyini ziyi-protein compounds ezomeleza isakhiwo seeseli. Kukho imvelaphi yezilwanyana (ubisi) okanye isityalo (ingqolowa, isilikhi).
I-Retinol-isistim e-vitamin A, ivuselela ukuhlaziywa kweeseli kunye nezinye iinkqubo ze-metabolic esikhumbeni. Isetyenziswe njengenxalenye esebenzayo kwizonyango zokuguga kunye nokunyanga kwesikhumba esinengxaki esithintekayo kwi-rashes kunye ne-acne.
SPF ( Ilanga Khuselo Isihlungi ) - izihlungi zelanga ezakha "isikhombiso" esikrinini. Ngokwinqanaba lokukhuselwa kwe-SPF lingahluka ukusuka kwiiyunithi ezi-2 ukuya kuma-60. I-SPF ingaba neentlobo ezimbini: ngokuchasene nemitha ye-UV ye-spectrum B (UVB) kunye ne-spectrum A (UVA). Ukubunjwa kwama-sunscreens anamhlanje kufuneka kubandakanye zombini iindidi ze-SPF, ngelixa iqondo lokukhusela imibala ye-spectrum B lihlala liphezulu kakhulu.
I-Flavonoids zizinto zendalo ezinoxanduva lokubala imibala nemifuno. Qinisekisa iinqanawa, uphucule ukwenziwa kwe-microcirculation kwesikhumba, ube nomthelela ochasayo. Ezinye iintlobo ze-flavonoids ziye zavuselela iipropati, zidla ngokuba zibizwa ngokuba yi-phytohormones, njengoko zifana nesakhiwo kunye nesiphumo se-estrogens.
Izimulsifiers- stabilizers, ukuthintela ukucwangciswa kwe-emulsion kwiindawo ezizimeleyo. Zisetyenziselwa kwi-cosmetology ukugcina i-compound kwizinto ezinzima ukuxuba, umzekelo, amanzi kunye neoli efunekayo.
Ii-enzyme ziinkqubo ze-organic ezikhawuleza iimpendulo ezenzeka kwiiseli zesikhumba, kuquka iinkqubo zokuhlaziywa. Iimbumba ze-enzyme zibhekwa njengobunono obukhulu kunye nokuzibamba, xa zihamba kunye ne-enzymes, isikhumba sikwenzakaliswa. Ama-enzyme yemvelaphi yemifuno zidla ngokucatshulwa kwi-papaya kunye ne-chinan.
Ekupheleni kwintetho ye-impromptu kwi-"Chemistry in Cosmetics" Ndingathanda ukongeza ukuba awudingi ukwesaba amagama angaqhelekanga, kodwa akufanele uwahoye. Kulungele ukuba nobuncinane ulwazi oluthe ngqo malunga neengxenye zezimonkco, ukuba wazi impembelelo emzimbeni wakho. Kwaye kuya kuba lula ukukhetha, kwaye ukusebenza kakuhle kuya kubakho amaxesha amaninzi.