Exomo, chiton, peplos, gimatiy, chlamys, hlena - onke lawa amagama eengubo zokuqala kwimbali yoluntu. AmaYiputa aseMandulo, amaGrike kunye neThan ayenamathele ngengubo elula. Ngokomzekelo, ngexesha likaHomere, umgca wecala elixandekileyo lwalunxweme lucwecwe kwisiqingatha ukwenzela ukuba umgca wecala udluliselwe kwicala lasekhohlo. Ingubo yayihlotshiswe ngomhlobiso, iditywe, ibhinqe. Zama ukuvelisa into efanayo ekhaya - uza kufumana i-chiton yangempela.
I-ROPE, NEEDLE NE-SHEARS
Xa iingubo ezigqityiweyo zatshintshwa yi-korenaya, abaxhasi baqala ukusika imikhono kunye nangaphambili nangemuva. Ngeli-XIII leminyaka, iimpahla zaqala ukuqhekeza, kodwa zihlekisa: imihla ngemihla kwafuneka zihlambe okanye zibophe, kwaye ngokuhlwa ziba okanye zikhulule - kungenjalo akunakwenzeka ukuba zisuswe. Kwaye kuphela xa baqulunqa i-clasp kwengubo, iimpahla zangasese zatshitshiswa kwi-armhole "ekufeni".
Ngexesha leMinyaka Ephakathi, iimpahla zaba zide kakhulu, kunye nesitimela, umzimba omncinci kakhulu, esinqeni - nje phantsi kwebele. Iimikhono, zinyanzelisiwe, zaphela ngeentsimbi ezazifake isithupha sesandla. Ukuba beyenyuka phantsi, bahlotshiswe ngoboya okanye i-applique ukusuka kwendwangu. Kwakuyimikhono yamandla kunye nobude beengubo eziphakanyisiweyo kwiklasi yokuphakama kwabanikazi bayo. Kwaye ulapha ubuhle obuhle, enqwenelekayo ukuba isalathisi esikhuphayo sichaze ukujikeleza kweefom zayo, uzama ngesambatho esitsha: i-bodice igxininisa isifuba, inqeni ixininiswe ngebhanti elinobukhulu, kwaye emagqabeni i-brocade ebiza kakhulu, i-moire, i-velvet, i-satin icwecwe kwaye idibene kakhulu.
Kwinqanaba le-XVII inkunzi yowesifazane yayomelelwe i-corset ngeentsimbi zetsimbi. Ngokugqithiseleyo ukuya kwinqanaba, umlenze waba ngumkhonto onamandla. Ukongezelela okwefashini kwakuyikholeji enkulu yokuma. Xa i-lama yatshatyalaliswa ngokukhawuleza (inyaniso, kaninzi ngenxa yokungabikho kwe-oksijini ngenxa ye-corset eqinile), kucatshangelwa ukuba kule mpa, ibonakala ibubele kwaye ibukeka kakuhle.
Ekupheleni kwekhulu elineshumi elinesibhozo elinamashumi amabini anqamlekisiweyo uPaul Poiret wamema abafazi ukuba baye ekugqibeleni baze bayeke i-corsets. Ingubo ebude yaqala ukufikelela kumgca we-ankle, isikhumba sikhuliswa ngaphantsi kwelinqeni, imikhono yesandla yayisebubanzi kummandla weengxowa zengxondorha kwaye iminyanzelo kwiimbumba, yafana ngokufanayo. Umnqweno wokwenza lula iingubo kangangoko kunokwenzeka ukuba kukhokelela kwisisombululo esitsha ngokusesikweni kwengubo. Ngoko, umzekelo, kwaqulunqwa ukusika kunye ne-oblique ukwenzela ukulungelelanisa okunamandla komfanekiso. Kamva, kwimeko yokutya, abafazi bavula imilenze yabo ngakumbi. Ukongezelela, emva kweMfazwe Yehlabathi yokuqala kunye noshintsho lwezoqoqosho, abantu baphoqeleke ukuba baqhube ubomi obusebenzayo, apho ubuninzi beengubo ezinde bekungumqobo omkhulu. Ingubo yaqala ukushiya izinto ezincinci kwaye zingaphantsi, kwaye ukucoca kwaqala ukucatshulwa ngokubanzi nangakumbi ngokucokisekileyo. Umhlaba wezinto ezintsha zenziwe ...
HLAWONKE I-TRAUR, KUNYE NE-GLAMOR
Enyanisweni, abafazi basebenzisa izambatho ezimnyama ezithobekileyo ngaphambili. Enyanisweni, kukho izizathu ezikhethekileyo ezi. Ngokuqhelekileyo kwakulila. Okanye ezinye izambatho zazingekho ngenxa yokuhlupheka. Abahlolokazi, abancedisi bevenkile kwiivenkile, abantombazana abasweleyo ... Ngandlela-thile, abazange banxulumane nokuvuya. Ngaba kwakumnyama kumntu? Ngamanye amaxesha, ewe. Xa u-Queen Victoria waseNgilani wayesifazana, ilizwe lonke lalingena kwiingubo zakhe zokulila. Nangona kunjalo, iingubo ezimnyama ezinomtsalane zajika emva koko.
UGabrielle Chanel wadala njengomzekelo, ngowe-1926 waza wachaza esidlangalaleni ukuba imfashini ayinakwenzeka ngaphandle kwengubo emnyama emnyama. Ngobusuku kwaba ngumqondiso we-chic entsha, kwaye phantse uphawu olufanayo lweFransi njenge-Eiffel Tower. Ingubo emnyama emnyama yayingeyomnyama nje: uChanel walahlekelwa ngumthandi wakhe. Emva kwakhe, isiqingatha sehlabathi sigqoke isijwili. Imibala evuyayo kunye ne-pastel yomnyango oyintloko yayikhohliwe.
Kubonakala njani umcibi wobuciko? Ingubo - i-muslin, iinqununu ezinqambileyo, iimpahla ezincinci ezide. Akukho zigqithisi: akukho khola, akukho maqhosha, akukho miqulu, akukho frills. Imboleko kuphela yintambo yeeparele entanyeni, iyanciphisa ubunzima. UChanel uthembele ngokuqinisekileyo wathi ezininzi zokuthutha ziyazi indlela yokujonga phezulu kwengubo, kodwa kuphela yinto engayenza isiseko sayo. Wayeqwalasela ubude ngaphezu kweedolo ukuba abukeleke. Amadolo akhe abonakala kuye njengenxalenye engathandekiyo yomzimba wesetyhini. Ngoko wawagubungela phakathi. Ingubo entsha yayidemokhrasi. Vumela loo nto iyenzeka ngoku kwinto nawuphi na umfazi-nokuba lowo umvuzo wakhe othobekileyo. Kufuneka uhlaziye isambatho sambatho kunye nesambatho esisodwa ukuze uzive umfesane kwaye unxibe.
Abaqulunqi abaninzi baye bafaka ezininzi iimvavanyo ngeengubo ezimnyama ezimnyama. Yonke into ishintshile: ubude beemikhono, umzobo wentamo, ubude beengubo, i-trim. Ukudalwa kweKoko ekuchazeni uKarl Lagerfeld kwajika yaba yingubo encinane enezantsi okanye okanye iingubo ezimhlophe. Ingubo yesikhumba eDeor yabuyisela umfazi kwi-Middle Ages. I-Zhuvanshi zambethe iingubo ezijikeleze i-lace shawl. U-Emanuel Ungaro wongezela inqanawa enkulu, egxininisa kwinqeni, kunye nengubo ende ende. UValentino wayisondeza kwi-lace emnyama. U-Yves Saint Laurent wenza ihlazo waza wakhenkceza umgca wesikwere kunye nemilomo ekhanyayo ebomvu ebusweni bukaSalvador Dali. Kwaye kwaphakanyiswa iingubo ezimnyama ezithandwayo nguGaultier: izambatho zazihlanganiswe emzimbeni, kwaye intsimbi ejikelezayo yaya ngaphantsi kwebhokhwe, imbonakalisa ngokukhawuleza.
Kodwa oko kuyathakazelisa: kuyo yonke imbali yefashoni kunye nesitayela, nayiphi na ukuphambuka kwenguqu yangaphambili yayinqatshelwe ingubo emnyama emnyama yokungafani kwayo. Kwaba nantoni na: ishishini, i-cocktail, ngokuhlwa, kodwa yaphela ukuba yinto yonke, kwaye ngoko ke, kufuneka utyalo-mali olutsha luzalise i-wardrobe. Ukongezelela, ngesambatho esitshintshileyo, umninimzi wakhe wayebetha ngokungadingekile, ukhunjulwe ngabanye - ukubeka kwixesha eliqhelekileyo kwakusele luyingozi nje.
Njalo ixesha le-fashionista alinakudinwa "ukucaphula" ukudala iCoco. Naziphi na izithobekiso nale nto inokwenziwa ngokukhawuleza. Nantsi ibhinqa egqoke ibhatyi elula phezulu-kwaye inokuthunyelwa kwiofisi. Wongezelela iingubo kunye ne-embroidery kunye ne-brooch eneentsimbi zokugqithisa - ingubo yajika yaba yinto ekhangayo kumaqela. Kulo xesha, unako ukuyeka ingubo emfutshane emnyama kunye ne-pantyhose enemibala ebomvu. Ukuba kubanda, i-turtleneck eneemikhono emininzi iya kugcinwa, kodwa iyancipha kunye nombala ohlukileyo. Okanye phezulu kwengubo - i-collar yeboya ye-mating. Akukho khetho encinci engabonakaliyo inokuqwalaselwa yonke ingubo efanayo, eguguweyo phezu kweebhulukhwe ezinzima. Ngendlela, ngeli xesha i-Fashion House Chanel iyanciphisa i-sleeves kwikota yesithathu kwaye yanikeza iikhosikiyali enye-ingubo ebomvu, ebomvu kunye ne-cocky. Iimvulo: utamatisi, isanqante, i-coral, i-geranium, ibomvu ebomvu, i-purple, burgundy ...
UKUHLAWULWA KWENKQUBO
Yaye yintoni enxibayo ngalunye usuku? Kulo busika, izindlu ezininzi eziyaziwayo kwi-wardrobe zinomdlalo ohlekisayo, ophantse u-sarafan (uzakufumana into enje eDeha naseBenetton), onokugqithwa kunye namabhanki amhlophe angenasimo kunye nama-turtlenecks amnandi. Kwaye akufanele kubekwe ngabantu abancinci kuphela, kodwa kubasetyhini abaneminyaka ephakathi. Kuyinto enqwenelekayo ukuba i-blouse ibe nekholeji encinci ngaphandle kwembombo ezibukhali, iincinci ezincinci, kwaye kwakukho iiputi ezincinane kwimikhono emfutshane. USarafanchik nayiphi na imeko akavumelekanga ukuba afake ngokugqithiseleyo umzobo wakho. Yonke into ifanele ibe yindawo ebanzi, ikhululekile kwaye ingenasimo sengqondo. Iikholeji zonyaka zibonelela ngesambatho kunye nentanyeni phantsi kwentamo kunye nekholeji encinci (iMonna, La Redoute).
Ukuba sithetha ngefashoni ephakamileyo, i-DKNY iyavuma i-silhouette kwisitayela seLatin - isambatho esinesibhakabhaka esineqhosha eliphezulu. UGucci wayethanda i-shirt-shirt ngeepatheni ezibonisa imifanekiso, ehlotshiswe nge-silver sequin, egqoke ngeenyawo eziphezulu kunye ne "patchwork". UMiuccia Prada unikeza iingubo ezimfutshane, iingubo ezibomvu zika-satin - ezibomvu, ezibomvu, ze-orange - kunye namaxhama ajikelezayo kwisitayela sama-40 (ungayinaki iingubo zokugqoka zegolide kunye nevumba le-Sinequanone). UFerre wabonisa iingubo zengubo zelinen yelinen, imibala emnyama kunye ne-beige (malunga no-Anastasia ngu-S'Oliver kunye no-Alain Manoukian). UKarl Lagerfeld ucebisa ukusetyenziswa kwezixhobo eziphezulu: i-silicone emnyama, isiliva lesiliva, i-holographic sequins. Imibala eyamkelekileyo: emdaka, emhlophe, isilivere, eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, eluhlaza Njengomphumo - umonakalo we-cosmic mood emoyeni wama-60: iingubo ezincinci zentsimbi kunye neflyflyfly, igqoke ngohlobo lwe-bat. Konke oku kuthethwa ngqo ngumlando wefashoni kunye nesitayela kwiingubo. I-accessory-must have a belt belt that tighten the waist. Kuyafaneleka ukujonga kwi-MonSoon noKaren Mylen - uza kubona iimpahla ezifanayo.