Isigqibo sokuya ngeveki ukuya ePrague savuka ngokukhawuleza, ndandimangaliswe ukuba andizange ndifike nantoni na ingxabano. IRiphablikhi yaseCzech, ngoko iCzech Republic, emva koko, lizwe elitsha - njengencwadi entsha enomdla. Imifanekiso. I-Majestic, ngamanye amaxesha ibuhlungu, kwaye ngamanye ama-caramel-doll. Incwadi malunga neemfihlelo eziye zadlula kude. Endaweni apha, mhlawumbi, kwakukho neehophesi ekudalweni kwelitye lefilosofi - kwakungekho nto i-alchemists, abaphangi beenkwenkwezi nabalingani beenkwenkwezi bathanda loo mzi kakhulu. Abathandi nabo ngabalobi, bazinikela ngamakhulu kunye namakhulu emaphepha kwiindawo eziyimfihlakalo yenkampani yaseCzech. Ngoko isigqibo sam ngokuzenzekelayo sokuchitha iveki kuphela kunye nePrague sele sinentsingiselo ebalulekileyo.
Ekupheleni kokufa kwabachithwabi.
Kubonakala ukuba, le nqaba ephakamileyo ngaphezu kwam i-Daliborka ephazamisayo, echazwe ngumlobi owaziwayo u-Gustav Mayekin kwi-novel Walpurgis Night. (Ngokuqhelekileyo wayekuthanda inkohlakalo, ukuxuba kwiimbali zasemadeni yeembali ngaphandle kwesiqalo kunye nokuphela, okuye bona ngokwabo, baba yimbali - njengenye yeencwadi zakhe ezidumileyo "Golem"). Indlela yokusondela kwinqaba elisondeleyo - Andiyi kukukhumbula engqondweni yam: eMalaya Strana kukho izitratato ezininzi ezigwenxa kunye namaqela angaphakathi, imigudu kunye neendinyana, kwaye kulula kakhulu ukulahleka. Esikhundleni seDaliborka, indlela (kwakhona kwakhona!) Ikhokela kumgwaqo weZlatu. Ngamaxesha amandulo ama-alchemists kunye nabantu abangaqhelekanga bahlala apha-i-Meyrink yabhala ngabo. Ngokuqhelekileyo, andinxalenye yeencwadi kwi Prague - andinakuqonda into enayo malunga nayo (yonke into iyigqugquzela kwaye idideka, awukwazi ukuqonda apho uphupha khona, apho inyaniso ikhona), kodwa ingqiqo yesiXeko sinamandla ngokungaqhelekanga.
I-Zlata isitalato - kungekhona nesitalato, kodwa isiphelo esiphelileyo. Ndiyakucinga ukuba ngethuba elithile lapha lalingenangqungquthela, idlambo, kuphela imisebe engabonakaliyo yelanga elungileyo phakathi kwezindlu, kwaye ebusuku kuphela ilanga elikhanyayo elalisondela ekupheleni kwesitrato likwazi ukukhonza njengendawo ebalulekileyo, ngaphandle kokukhanyisa iindlela. Isitrato sazisa iingcamango ezinzulu kunye nemifanekiso, kodwa ngoku ikhangeleka njengedolophana elincincileyo: izindlu ezincinci, apho ungena khona, uguqa intloko yakho, udwebe ngemibala eyahlukileyo; izinto ezincinane zeembulelo zifakwe kwiifestile ezincinci: amathoyizi enkuni, i-harmonica, amakhadi aqhakazileyo kunye neembali zakudala ze Prague. Amanani apha - oh-oh-oh, kodwa unokubukela ukuzonwabisa, ngoko ndicinga ukuba ndilapha kumyuziyam.
Ibhuloho phakathi kwehlabathi ezimbini.
Baya kuthiwa uCharles Bridge, bathi, kwakuyeyona ndlela yindlela, nangona kunzima ukukholelwa kuyo - incinci kakhulu. Ukuthetha ngokuthe ngqo, idibanisa i-Old Place (i-Old Square) kunye nelizwe elincinane-izithili ezimbini ezizithandayo ngabakhenkethi, kodwa i-aura yabo ihluke kakhulu. Olunye umoya ococekileyo, oya ekhaya olungileyo, "ulwandle" oludaka (iphunga leshokoledi eshisayo kunye newayini elixubileyo!) - kunye nobukhulu obushushu obunxele, i-Malostransky. Kulapho, kwidolophu encinane, iiplaza zeemabula kunye neendonga zomeleleyo, indlela esiyikhokelayo ngayo ngesizathu esithile esibizwa ngokuba yi "barracks classicism." Ewe, le ndlela ayikho, kodwa ibonisa ngokuchanekileyo intsingiselo. Nanku i-cathedral eyaziwayo eyaziwayo ye-St Witt, apho ungayithuthumela khona ithambo - ibusika ebomvu livela ngaphantsi apha, ukusuka emangcwabeni. Ukusuka kwelinye ibhanki ukuya kwelinye, abakhenkethi badlula iVltava. Kwi sixeko ngasinye kukho isitrato apho wonke umntu "eya kubona abantu aze azibonakalise", jongela umculi, uthenge uhlobo oluthile lwesithenxo okanye "imvula" yelizwe. UCharles Bridge uyisitalato enye. Ngomso kukho "ukuqhuma kwendlela" rhoqo, utyhoboza kanzima, kodwa apha ungakwazi ukudibana nabalinganiswa obuhle kakhulu. Umzekelo, indoda endala enebhokhwe kwintambo. AmaJapan aneekhamera, amaTaliyane aneenkampani zokugcina izikhwebu emhlane, amaJamani kunye nama-thermos - kunye nebhokisi elimhlophe. Okanye umgca obalaseleyo we-Hare Krishnas ene-loudspeaker. Bayavuya ngokuvakalayo iingoma zabo kunye nokudansa ngothando ngokusuka kwiBrador ukuya kwi-Old Square balandelwa ngumtya wolwazi-kwaye ndiquka. Xa abantu bephilile, kulula kakhulu ukuba babanjwe ngokunyaniseka, kungakhathaliseki ukuba baxhomekeke kunqulo.
Ukujonga okuvela ngaphantsi, imbono evela phezulu.
AmaCzech alala embhedeni, avuke kakhulu kusasa, kwaye iholide ayinalo. Ndifika ngo-9 ekuseni ngeWenceslas Square, ndihamba nge-Old Place, uwele umlambo omkhulu ePrague kwibhuloho ... Abahanjethi balala emva kobusuku bokulala, kwaye ndiyazi isixeko. Kwaye ngoku kusasa kusasa, kulo moya omnandi weqhwa, ngandlela-thile iphakama ngokugqithiseleyo ngaphezu kwam. Inqaba nganye, zonke izibilini ziyabingelela kwaye, njengokuba kunjalo, zithinta i-conspiratory plot: Ewe, mzalwana, apha mna ndedwa - kunye ne-Vltava.
Ukujonga kwinqanaba elakhiwe ngokubanzi malunga ne-Old Square, kwafuneka sikhwele kwinqaba yeHolo yaseKapa. Enyanisweni, kubo bonke abantu abaqhelekileyo banokuphakamisa, kodwa ngenxa yesizathu esithile ndizimisele ngokunyanisekileyo ukuhamba ngeenyawo. Sekude kulukhuni ukulinda - ngakumbi i-chic imbono evela phezulu. Indlu nganye, izitrato zonke, izihlwele zabavakhenkethi, ama-cathedrals kunye necawa - zonke phambi kwamehlo akho, imephu ephilileyo ye-city.
Ekuseni kusasa. Ngemini kuya kukhishwa, iqhwa liza kuqala ukunyibilika kwakhona - nakusibusika ukushisa oku kudla ngokukhawuleza kwehla ngaphaya kwe-zero, kwaye kunye nabo -10, abaye baphuma kwisabelo sethu, bahluleki, ngoko ke, sinenhlanhla. Ndiya kugqiba ukujonga isixeko ukusuka kwindawo ephakamileyo, kuphela ukusuka kwelinye ulwandle. Ngethuba lokuhamba ngandlela-thile ukugijima nokusebenza, akukho ndawo apho ungeke ubeke khona uze ume, cingisisa ngawe, uphefumle umoya womnye umntu, kodwa sele sele usenezixeko ezikufutshane. Kwaye ngoku sele elele, umthengisi oyedwa okhumbuza umnqweno okhumbuza ngokukhawuleza umtya wakhe kwi-Old Castle Stairs. Ukugqithisa, ndiyabona indlela ahamba ngayo. Isiteji side kwaye sithobekile, kodwa kukho uphahla olunamathele, iindawo ezintle, ezilungele kakuhle-kukufanele ukunyuka okukhulu. Kwaye ulapha unokucinga ukuba iikholeji ezimbalwa zokugqibela zazingekho kwaye ungekho ngaphambili - ngendlela, kulula! Isiteji se-castle yimbono enhle kakhulu kubathandi bezithuba. Ukusuka apha ungabona umlambo - enye indlela kunye nezinye, amabhuloho, iinduli. Kukho phantse imoto kunye neekrama ezijikelezileyo, kodwa ngokukhawuleza ihashe enenqwelo ingabonakala phantsi. Ngamanye amaxesha kwanezinye izihlandlo zendlela: "Qaphela, inqwelo yehashe!"
Isabelo seCzech.
Emva kokuba uhambe kwaye ukhulise umdla, emva kwemini ufike kwi cafe e kufuphi. Ukususela kumzamo wokuqala wokubamba ukuluma, kuyacaca ukuba kufuneka ufunde imenyu ngokucophelela: amaxabiso aphantsi ayadideka, kwaye awuqapheli ukuba uyala i-pig epheleleyo. "Isaladi yamaGrike isincinci" Ndandinxulumene ngqo kunye neekhilo ezihlanu zeeshizi kunye neminquma emihlanu - akukho sikhungo esinalo ngaphezulu kwesi sizinga asiyibeki, kodwa sinako. IziCzech ngokuqhelekileyo aziqwalasela iimveliso. Isaladi "encinci" yayilayishwe kwisitya se-salad esifanelekileyo, esivame ukuzalisa phambi kokufika kweendwendwe - ngulowo okhonzayo. Kwaye ngoko yonke into. Ngoko ke kunenzuzo kakhulu ukuya kwiindawo zokutyela ezininzi kunye neendawo zokutyela ezincinci kunye nenkampani encinane: enye isaladi kunye nesitya esishushu esisodwa sinokuhlulwa zibe zintathu. Kwaye uza wedwa - kwaye akukho nto ufanele ukhethe nantoni na, awukwazi ukutya yonke into. Ukucalulwa kwimiqulu yesisu!
Shopaholic.
Ngokuqinisekileyo, ndiya kwelinye ilizwe ukuba ndingayothengi. Ndinomdla kwimbali, ubugcisa, ubugcisa, umoya ... Abantu, emva koko. Kodwa ngaphambi kokuba izitolo ze Prague zingakwazi ukuma. Ngokomntu, ndihlasele umculo kunye neencwadi. Iincwadi, ngokuqinisekileyo, ukuba ngetekisi, ngoko ngesiNgesi - kuzo zonke iincwadi zokuthengisa ezinkulu zikhona isebe elikhethekileyo. Ngokubanzi, nantoni yam intandokazi - ii-albhamu zaseCzech. KwiRiphabhliki yaseCzech kukhona ezininzi eziphawulekayo zezithombe zabaculi, ezaziwa "kwiinkalo ezininzi zeengcali ezincinci." Ndaxelelwa ngokuphila kwabo nge-intanethi. Kukho uhlobo oluthile olukhethekileyo, olucingayo noluthandanayo, - olubahlula kwi-mass mass. Ubugcisa babo buninzi bumnyama nomhlophe, zikhona izithunzi ezininzi kunokukhanya, kwaye umzimba womfazi we-naked uhanjiswa kwindawo efanayo efanayo neendonga, amabhuloho kunye nezikwere zasePrague. Umzimba womntu uboniswa ngendlela efana neendonga zangaphambili, iintlanzi, iinqaba.
Kwaye ngokukhawuleza, ngokubhekiselele kwimeko yangaphambili kwayo yonke le ntshukumo ye-halftone - i-bacchanalia yombala ukusuka kuJan Saudek. Lo ngumdali oqaqambileyo kwaye, ngokugweba ngeengxakeko zakhe, useyi-libertine! I-albhamu yakhe - ngaphandle kweembalo ezimbalwa zehlabathi "- nokuba ngandlela-thile kunzima ukubonisa abahlobo (oku akunakwenzeka ukuba kunikwe umama okanye udade omncinci), kodwa akunakwenzeka ukusikhupha umbono. Kwaye yonke into - kuyo yonke into ekhangelekayo, kuyo yonke into eyenziwayo - into engabonakaliyo ngesiCzech. Kwi-intanethi, umsebenzi wakhe udibanisa, udibanisa kwiindawo kunye neeblogi kwisantya esingenakucinga. Ngokufanayo kumculo, uPrague ngumzi weklasiki. Okukhethekileyo apha apha yiDvorak noStetana-ilifa lemveli kwelizwe. Imisebenzi yabo ibandakanya iikonkethi, ezenzeka rhoqo nakusihlwa kuwo onke amabandla esi sixeko. Ndaya kwiziganeko ezinjalo ngokuzonwabisa, kodwa iibhentshi zecawa zinzima kakhulu, kwiicawa zamatye zibandayo kakhulu, kunye nabakhenkethi abanomphefumlo obomphefumlo babeka imilenze yabo ekhethekileyo kwimadolo emithandazo. Kuyathakazelisa, ngaba abantu ekhaya, emazweni abo, baya ecaweni?
Kwivenkile, ekukhunjweni kwesi sixeko, ndakhetha i-disc kunye ne-violin yamaYuda enomsindo kwaye ngamanye amaxesha ndithe ndabona imifanekiso yePrague phantsi kwezi zixhobo ezinemibala kunye ne-sobs.
Akukho iholide? Iholide!
Kwaye, yintoni ekho, iholide eziphambili? Umzekelo, uNyaka omtsha? Okumangalisayo kukuba, kwiRiphabhliki yaseCzech ayibhiyozelwayo. Ndithetha abahlali - abazamukelwanga ngaloo ndlela, ubusuku bobusuku bubangalisa ukumangaliswa okuncinane. Kodwa abakhenkethi bayonwaba yonke indlela - ngokunyanisekileyo, ngokukhawuleza, ngokungafaniyo. Ngokuthe ngqo kwi-Eva yoNyaka omtsha kukho iindlela ezininzi: i-disco fashion, i-brewery yangempela kunye ne-haystack ebhaliweyo phantsi kweenyawo zayo okanye i-cafe eyaziwayo apho uFranz Kafka ngokwakhe wayenguye (uKafka, ngokungaqhelekanga, wayengenakulungile - i-cafe ayilungile kakhulu). Kunokwenzeka kwaye kwindawo yokunamathela kwizihlwele zokuhamba-kwindlu yethu encinci yokubhinca ukuhlaziywa kwenyuka ukuya ekunteni kokusa, kunye nomdlalo kwiibhola zeqhwa kunye nokuqala kwemisebenzi yomlilo. Ngexesha lendawo ngeli xesha liholide - usuku lukaSt Syvester (usuku olutsha lweNtsuku). Kwaye ke, iKrismesi. Ukufika ePrague ngasekupheleni kukaDisemba okanye ekuqaleni kukaJanuwari, uyakwazi ukufumana ulwahlulo kunye nobutyebi beemarike zeKrismesi. Yonke i-Old Town Square kunye ne-Wenceslas Square ende ihlotshiswe ngezithixo zokhuni kunye nazo zonke iintlobo zezinto - iikhumbuzo, "iwayini elibilisiweyo", iipesele, amathoyizi, imizobo. Abaculi badlala, iinqwelo zamahashe zihamba - umoya weemithendeleko ezithandwayo, kuphela kwendima yabantu - "bangene kwinani elikhulu" abatyeleli.
O, elinye ixesha.
Mhlawumbi, le ngenye yezo zixeko apho ungenakho ixesha lokwenza konke okucetywayo. Okanye ufuna ukuphinda uhamba ngokuphindaphindiweyo, ufuna ukwazi kabanzi malunga nePrague. Ngoko ke, ngandlela-thile, ngokukhawuleza ndifuna ukuza kwakhona, kwaye ngokuphindaphindiweyo ... Ngokomzekelo, andizange ndilibale indlela yokuzisola ngayo i-facade efihlakeleyo yeTyn Cathedral - yonke ixesha kubonakala ngathi emva kwesihlomelo "caramel" ifihlwe into kwaye ngokuqinisekileyo iGothic. Andizi ukuba kukho into ekhethekileyo, okanye bekucetywayo ukususela ekuqaleni. I-cathedral inokugqithiselwa ukusuka kwicala, unokulinganisela ubungakanani bayo obukhulu, ukuphosa intloko yakho, kodwa ixinyiwe ngokukhawuleza phakathi kwezitalato eziphosakeleyo ukuba awuyi kufumana umfanekiso oqhelekileyo. Ndihlala ngothando lokunyamezela ukuthuthwa kweedolophu zakwaPrague - abazi ukuba yiyiphi "ihora lokukhawuleza". Kwaye kukho imitha emithathu yedolophu. Iimitha kunye neebhasi zihamba ngokukhawuleza ngexesha elichaziweyo, kwaye indlela iya kufundiswa kwindawo. Ngenye yee tram ndafika phantse kumasango amaninzi aPowder, kwaye babumnyama ngokugqithiseleyo phantsi kwemvula enqabileyo okanye ikhephu elihle, emva koko bebukeka bebuhlungu elangeni.
Phantse yonke imihla, kunye nekhulu labakhenkethi, bemi ngaphantsi kwexesha elidumileyo le-astrological clock - u-Orloi, kwaye balinda ukuba amanani afakile ukuba aqale ukuhamba. Ngelixa elithile le nto yenzeke njalo, ngoko ke isikwere savakaliswa yi-cock-crowing-crowing, njengeliso lokunqoba ububi-kwaye bonke bebodwa. Kwaye andikaze ndikwazi ukuqonda oko kwenzekayo. Ndifumene isitalato esincinci, kunye nayo - i-junk e-stunning junk: amabhondi angama-keyholes, i-accordion engama-half-ruffled, iimpawu zesitalato zekhulu leminyaka ngaphambi kokugqibela, i-old coffee grinders kunye ne-teapots, iwashi. Kodwa iintsuku ezakudala kwakufuneka zihlawule kakhulu. Ngoko washiya, ebubula. Ndakwazi ukuhlola kuphela isithathu sesoo esinqabileyo, esilinga ukuthetha kwizinto ezihlukeneyo. Ndiphantse yonke imihla ihleli kwi-veranda ye-cafe enhle kwaye idla iigwangu ezimnandi ngesithelo esitsha - ngokwemigangatho yethu yonke le ntleko inikelwa ngokungenanto ("zdarma" e-Czech), kwaye umonakalo awuncinci. Ngako oko kwakuhlala kuhlala, ukhangele i-albhamu yezithombe ezithengwa ngokutsha, ukulibala ngomsebenzi kunye nayo yonke into malunga nayo yonke into. Kwaye ngoku ndiyakhumbula Prague rhoqo xa ndijonga kwinqwelo-mali yokulahleka ngokukhawuleza-kukho phantse yonke into ishibhile ngaphezu kweyethu, kwaye i-wallet, ngokufanelekileyo, ikhupha ngakumbi. Ndabona indawo apho abakhenkethi abahambi khona-imbono yePrague evela kwelinye, kwicandelo lezoshishino kunye ne-landscape, apho "i-Lemonade Joe" ifakwe khona. Ayaziwa ukuba ndiyakubona kwakhona, kuba abahlali bezindlu zangasese ezizimeleyo bafuna ukuvala le nqaku. Kwaye ndiyakwazi ukuyiqonda: lo hlobo - ewe, yintoni na loo nto? Zonke iintlobo ze Prague! - Ndifuna ukuba ngumnikazi wedwa.