Ukugqithisa ngokwemveliso yee-thirties

Ama-thirties agqitywe ngokulawulwa kwezinto ezithandwayo. Lo mboniso we-aesthetic uthathwe ngabantu abaninzi abadumileyo: uSalvador Dali, uJean Cocteau, noAndré Breton. Iingcamango zalo mgaqo zibandakanya umnqweno wokususa imigca phakathi kweqiniso kunye namaphupha, inqwenela yonke into engavumelaniyo, ngokuchasene nombono kawonkewonke, ukunganangqiqo. Ukugqithiswa kwamanzi kufumaneka kwiincwadi, i-cinema, ukudweba. Akukho nxaxheba encinci idlalwe yi-surrealism ngendlela ye-thirties.

Indlalifa yaseNtaliyane uElsa Schiaparelli waba ngumsunguli we-surrealism ngendlela ye-thirties yenkulungwane edlulileyo. Usizi, kodwa igama lakhe alilibalekanga. Ukukhankanywa kolu buntu obuqaqambileyo nabokuqala bwenziwa kuphela malunga neCoco Chanel. Nangona abaphandi banamhlanje bathi igalelo ekuphuhlisweni kwefashini ukusuka kwicala leSchiaparelli libaluleke ngakumbi kunefuthe likaKhanel. Kwaye kwi-thirties kwakungekho myili wendalo kunye nombonisi obonakalayo.

Ngokokuqala ngqa u-Elsa wazivakalisa ekupheleni kweminyaka engamashumi amabini. Yonke umsebenzi wentombazana yayingavamile, engeyona imilinganiselo, kwaye ezininzi zavusa ukwethuka koluntu. Kwiimodeli zakhe zakuqala, intombazana yayisetyenziselwa ama-African motifs, iingcamango zabaculi beCubist, kunye nemidwebo yabathathi bamatye. Kwiingqwembe ze-sweaters kwakukho ama-lobsters, amahange, iinyoka, imihlobiso engavamile. Ngu-Elsa owabonisa ihlabathi "intlanzi". U-Schiaparelli wuleza wazibandakanya iimvakalelo, ezithandwayo ezithatha ubomi bakhe. Ngokomzekelo, emva kokuba athathwe yinkwenkwezi, ukukhanya kwambona iqoqo eyaba sisiseko sesitayela "somqhubi". U-Elsa akazange akhiqize izinto ezityebileyo, kwaye oku kwahlukile kwabathathi befestile bexesha. Nguye owakhupha i-swimsuit ehlukeneyo, i-skirt ehlukeneyo, eyaba yinto yokutshatyalaliswa kweemfutshane ezifutshane. Esikhundleni sezinto zokugqoka, uElsa wacebisa ukusebenzisa iigrafu. Nangona indalo kaSchiaparelli kwaye yabangela ukutshatyalaliswa, kodwa babenomdla wokungafuneki.

Ndiyabulela kwimpumelelo yokuqokelela iingubo zangokuhlwa, isiNtaliyane sakwazi ukuvula i-boutique yakhe entliziyweni yaseParis. Iingubo ezivela kwiSchiaparelli zijonge. Ngokukodwa ekufuneni kwakungumgca wesigqoko esenziwe ngumbumba omnyama, wongezwa ngqayi, waphoswa phezu kwehlombe lakhe nasemvaweni yakhe emhlophe.

Iinkwenkwezi ezininzi ze-theater kunye ne-cinema yee-thirties zikhetha iimpahla zika-Elsa Schiaparelli. UMarlene Dietrich, uJoan Crawford, uGrta Garbo wayala iingubo zakhe, ngaphezu koko, kungekhona nje kuphela izikhwama, kodwa ugqokisa ukugqoka nsuku zonke. Ngo-Elsa, isivumelwano seminyaka emininzi sisayinwe ukuthunga iingubo zefilimu zaseHollywood. Kwaye kunye nomdlali ongunaphakade we-Schiaparelli-Coco Chanel unkontileka enjalo yagqitywa kuphela ngonyaka. Umthengi ongcono kwi-fashion designer wase-Italy nguWeest West. Lo mdlali wayeyimboli yesini yesithathu. Ubunzima bakhe obuzimeleyo, ukuziphatha okucacileyo kunye nobomi bentlalo eyenza ukukhangisa okufanelekileyo kwi talente ka-Elsa. I-West West idlwengule kuphela eSchiaparelli. Kwaye ukuze angathathi ixesha lonke ngokufanelekileyo, walungiselela ezi njongo i-plaster cast of figure in the pose of Venus de Milo. Yayilesi siqhelo esasisebenzisa uElsa kwibhotile xa edala imimoya yakhe engummangaliso.

Ukugqithiswa kwendlela ehamba ngayo kwi-thirties ifikelele kwinani layo. Ngeli xesha, uSchiaparelli wayesele ekhohlakeleyo kwiingcamango zakhe kunye nokucingwa, okuqingqiweyo kunye nokuqhelaniswa ... esebenzise izizathu ezinzulu zokuphuhlisa iimpahla. Kwaye uElsa wasondelana kwaye wabambisana nabadumileyo abadumileyo uSalvador Dali, uJean Cocteau, uAndré Breton, uPablo Picasso.

Indalo yokuyila yayingeyona nje imfashini, iimpahla, kodwa ziyizinto ezibucayi ngokwenene. Umzekelo yindoda ebonakala ngathi ibuyiselwa emuva, iingubo kunye nemidwebo - ii-X-ray, ingubo ngokuxelisa iinqwelo eziqwengqileyo, iifowuni, iifowuni kunye namaphepha epapasho ngo-Elsa ngokwakhe. Yaye yintoni na eyakhe imveliso eyenzelwe yona: inqabunga efana neeplatele zokupakisha, iiglavu ezinamacwecwe amade ... Umqambi wenza inhlanganisela engaqhelekanga yembala, kuba wayethanda imibala eqaqambileyo. Kukho rhoqo imifanekiso edibanisa imibala ebomvu, yomnquma nemfusa. Wanikela ukunxiba ingubo emnyama ngeesitokisi ezibomvu. Ijekethi yombala okhohlakeleyo ogqitywe nge-burgundy braid. Iipateni eziluhlaza zenziwe ngepinki.

Ukuthetha ngo-surrealism ngendlela ye-thirties, sithetha uElsa Schiaparelli.