Ukukhusela kunye nempilo yesikhumba kubaluleke kakhulu igobolondo e-acidic - i-shell ekhuselekileyo yemvelo, eyakhiwa phezu kwesikhumba ngenxa yokuxuba okuveliswa yimigqomo, ukukhupha kunye ne-oxidation yokuphila kwabo elukhumbeni lwebhakteria ethile-epidermal staphylococci. Kodwa iphazamiseka ngokuchazwa kwelanga, izimonyo, ukujuluka ngokugqithiseleyo kunye nazo zonke iintlobo zokutya.
Alpha hydroxy acids.
I-asidi eqhelekileyo kwimfucu yiqela le-alpha hydroxy acid.
Eli qela liquka iziqhamo ze-acid - i-lemon, i-apula, i-tartaric, i-lactic ne-glycolic. Ezi zixhobo zifumaneka kwizityalo ezininzi kunye neemveliso. Ngokulinganisela okufanelekileyo ekuvelweni kweemveliso zezonyango kunye nokusetyenziswa okufanelekileyo, bahlambulule isikhumba, bahlambulule, banciphise umbane wokukhanya kwe-ultraviolet, baphumelele ukubunjwa kwesikhumba kunye nokwandisa ukusebenza kweminye izithako eziqulethwe kwi-cosmetic composition.
Phezu kwesikhumba lonke ixesha lenziwa "iglue" - uhlobo lwezisele ezifile ze-epidermis. I-alpha hydroxy acids echanekileyo ngokutshabalalisa le "glue", okwenza ulusu lube lukhuni kwaye lubushelele. Ngenxa yoko, iincinci ezifayo zesikhumba zisuswe ebusweni, zivumela izimonyo ukuba zingene kwiindawo ezinzulu zesikhumba, okwandisa ukusebenza kwayo. Ukuba ulusu aluhambelananga, lubuhlungu kwaye lubonakala lungapheliyo, ukusetyenziswa kwezimonyo nge-alpha hydroxy acids ngokuqinisekileyo kuya kunika umphumo omuhle.
Nangona kunjalo ukuba i-molecular molecular structure ishilo kuzo zonke i-alpha hydroxy acids, zihluke kwiipropati kunye nokusebenza kwempembelelo kwiinkalo ezahlukeneyo zesikhumba. Kwi-alpha hydroxy acids, eziqhelekileyo ziyi-glycolic, i-citric, i-malic ne-lactic acids ezikhankanywe ngasentla.
- I-glycolic acid.
Into eqhelekileyo phakathi kwe-alpha hydroxy acids yi-glycolic acid. Iveliswa kwimizi yeshukela okanye ifunyenwe ngokuchanekileyo, nge-synthesis. Eyona ndlela iphumelele kakhulu ngenxa yobuncinane bee-molecule, okuvumela ukuba kungene lula kwesikhumba.
I-glycolic acid ihlambulula kakuhle i-skin of cells cell, iyakusiza ukulahla imincinci emancinci kunye ne-acne. Enye yeenzuzo eziphambili ze-asidi yinto yokukwazi ukubeka umbala wesikhumba, ukukhanyisa iindidi ezahlukahlukeneyo ze-pigment, ukunyusa isikhumba, kunye nokwenza uhlobo oluthile lwe-catalyst, ukwandisa ukusebenza kweminye izithako ezenza izimonyo. Kuye kucatshulwa ukuba i-glycolic acid, engena ngaphakathi kwi-dermis, ivuselela umveliso we-collagen.
- Citric acid.
I-asidi ye-citric iyinamandla kakhulu yokulwa ne-antioxidant, ukuze, njenge-glycolic acid, inceda ukuvelisa i-collagen kwisalathisi se-dermis. Ukongeza, le asidi iyancipha inkqubo yokuguga kwesikhumba, isusa amabala e-pigment. I-asidi ye-Citric ifumaneka kwiininzi ezinkulu kwizithelo zelitrus.
- I-Lactic acid.
Ukunciphisa isikhumba esiqhekezayo, isikhumba esinyeneyo, ama-dermatologists ahlala esisebenzisa i-lactic acid enobisi, enekhono elifanelekileyo lokunciphisa nokunyusa isikhumba. I-Lactic acid igcina isisulu somswakama kwesikhumba, sisusa iincinci ezifayo ekhanda kwaye zandisa ukusebenza kwezinye izithako eziqulethwe kwi-cosmetic composition.
- Apple Acid.
I-Apple acid itholakala kwiidiliya eziluhlaza kunye namaapulo. Ngenxa yokukwazi ukwandisa ukuhamba kwe-oksijeni kwiimfucu, isoloko isetyenziselwa unyango lwezifo ezifana ne-fibromyalgia. I-Apple acid isetyenziselwa ukuveliswa kwezonyango zonyango.
Inhlanganisela echanekileyo yobungakanani bemvelo ye-asidi yesikhumba kunye nobukho be-acids kwi-agent ye-cosmetic yinto ephambili echaphazela ukuphumelela kweempembelelo ze-cosmetic esikhumbeni. Ukuba usebenzisa izimonyo ngokuchanekileyo, ke i-alpha hydroxy acids eluncedo kwesikhumba ayiyi kubangela ukucasuka kwaye ayiyi kubangela ukutshiswa.
Amino acid.
Iipeptides zihlobo lweetyuniti, ezakhiwe ngama-amino acids - izitena ze-biochemical zomzimba. Olu khonkco luqulethe inani elincinci lama-amino acids ndawonye, ngenxa yamabhondi e-peptide.
Xa uneminyaka yobudala, isikhumba silahlekelwa ukusibeka kwangoko. Oku kungenxa yokuncipha komsebenzi weeseli ezizodwa ezivelisa i-collagen kunye ne-elastin-ezo zibizwa nge-fibroblasts. Emva kweminyaka engama-40, kukho inani elinyukayo lamanzi, njengoko unyaka wonke umxholo we-collagen unciphise ngo-1%. Ama-amino acids anceda ukugcina i-elasticity kunye nolutsha lolusu, ukukhuthaza umveliso we-collagen kunye ne-elastin nge-fibroblasts, okwenza kube nzima.
Ama-amino acids afaneleka nasiphi na isikhumba, ngenxa yokuba ayichaphazeli ukulinganisela kwe-acid-base-base, musa ukucaphukisa okanye ukomisa isikhumba. Uninzi lweengxaki zesikhumba zixazululwa ngokusebenzisa izimonyo zokuguga, eziqukethe i-amino acids ekubunjweni kwayo.
Amanye ama-acids ancedo.
- I-Alpha-lipoic acid iyanciphisa inkqubo yokuguga, ingene kwiindawo ezincinci zelusu, isusa iiseli ezinokutsha nokulimaza. I-Alpha-lipoic acid i-soluble emanzini kunye namafutha, i-antioxidant esebenzayo.
- I-acid ye-salicylic isetyenziselwa unyango lwe-acne kunye nokuxutywa kwesikhumba esomileyo.
- I-Vitamin C, ngokuba yintsholongwane ye-antioxidant, ngendlela ye-ascorbic acid inefuthe lokukhanyisa ulusu.
- I-ellaglag acids kwimveliso yezonyongiso iphosa ukubonakala kunye nokwakhiwa kwamabala okudala, kuba isithako esingokwemvelo.
- I-linoleic acid ivuselela isikhumba esomileyo nesonakaliswe. Inxalenye yeemulsions zokunyusa.
- I-acid ye-Hyaluronic isetyenziswe njengesincinci esiphuthumayo esinobuninzi obumanzi.
- I-Poly-hydroxy-acid: njengezinye i-hydroxy-group acids, iyasebenza kakhulu, kodwa iyanceda ngenyameko kancinci.