Icandelo 1. Ukusetyenziswa kwamacids kwi-cosmetology: i-hydroxy acids

Kukho imboni yobuhle abantu abangathandeli uchungechunge "Ukwabelana ngesondo kunye nesiXeko." Ngaba ucinga ukuba kutheni? Ngoku siza kuhlaziywa inkumbulo yakho yesiqendu sesithandathu sesiqendu sexesha lesihlanu, kwaye uya kuqonda isizathu sesibindi sabo. Emva kokuba uSamantha obulalayo ebhalise kwiklinikhi kwiiyobisi zeBotox, kwaye ugqirha ogqwethayo wacetyisa ukuvavanya i-asidi, ukuthetha ngelizwi le-velvet: "Inye kuphela inkqubo iya kukuhlaziya iminyaka eyi-15-20." Ngenxa yoko, i-blonde ishiye kwikliniki ngokutsha okukhulu ebusweni. Ibali elibi, uh? Okwangoku, ugqirha wezonyango zezonyango uJeannette Graf uthi i-acids cosmatic in the mass of theirs are friendly to the skin - kuba sele sele ikhutshwe ngokwemvelo. Yaye iipropati zabo zihluke kakhulu: ezinye zizona zilunge kunanoma yiyiphi i-scrub exfoliate, abanye banika ukukhanya, abanye baqinisa imisebenzi yokukhusela ye-epidermis kwaye bayayilondoloza. Ngoko ukuba ungazenzeki ngengozi ngento ehluke ngokupheleleyo, ngaphambi kokuba ukhokele kwiintlobo ezisisiseko ze-acids, kwiimfuneko kwi-cosmetology kunye neempawu ezizodwa zokusetyenziswa kwazo. I-Oxyacids (ANA neVNA)
Intombazana yanamhlanje imele ikhanye - kwaye ezi ntombi zikhanye isikhumba kwaye ngaphantsi kweemeko zingachazwa njengengxaki.

Nguwuphi amandla wamacidi
Ukuxubusha i-epidermis kwaye unikeze ukukhanya kwempilo (eyimfihlo-ekususweni kweeseli ezifile), khuthaza umveliso we-collagen (nantoni ngokuphathelele ulutsha, njengoko uqonda), ukuphucula isikhumba kunye nokuphelisa i-pigmentation, kwaye wenze konke ukuqinisekisa ukuba awufi ngokwayo.

Bangobani?
Lapha sagqiba ekubeni sithethe ngokukhawuleza malunga neentlobo ezimbini ze-acids: i-ANA ne-VNA. Makhe ndichaze ndikuxelele ukuba liphi iqela ngalinye. Bobabini la makhemikhali abhalwe nge-acidi carboxylic acids kwaye ahlulwe ngokwemilo yamathambo: i-alpha (ANA) kunye ne-beta-hydroxy-acid (BHA). Nangona, ngokubanzi, bahlukeneyo ngento enye: yokuqala - ileta A, iququzelelwe emanzini, i-fat-in-fat. Kwaye ngoku siyiguqulela: I-ANA-hydroxy acids isebenza nasiphi na isikhumba, i-VNA-eyona nto ibaluleke kakhulu kubahlobo kunye namafutha okanye inhlanganisela.

Imisebenzi esemthethweni ye-ANA
Ubhala phantsi i-asidi i-salon kwi-salon: uyazi, ulinde inkqubo nge-ANA-hydroxy acids. Ikhono labo eliphambili kukuba kususwe iiseli ezifile, kwaye kuxhomekeke kwiinkcenkceshe ukwenza oku zinokuthi zizinzulu. Ngokomzekelo, i-cream ye-cream ene-ANA, ozoyiqhayisa ekhaya, isebenza kunye ne-strumum corneum, i-cosmetician, enezixhobo ezine-asidi ye-asidi, iya kufinyelela ngqo ukuya kwisidem. Bobabini kwimeko yokuqala kunye neyesibini, i-alpha-hydroxy acids zi malunga nalezi zilandelayo: zisasazwa phakathi kweeseli zesikhumba kwaye zikhupha iindawo ezincinci eziphezulu, apho zichithwa ngokukhuselekileyo. Ngokuhambelana nale nqubo, xa uqhagamshelana kunye nenkunkuma esebenzayo, iiseli ezikude ziqala ukubonisa umsebenzi. Oku kusebenza nakwi-fibroblast evelisa i-collagen, echaphazela ulutsha lwakho.

Isistim
Kwi-ANA-cream and cleanser yakho, i-concentration ye-acids ayifanele idlule kwi-5-8%, ukwenzela ukunakekelwa kwe-salon, umyinge u-20%. Ukuba uthe wangena ezandleni zengcali efanelekileyo, ukukhangela kunganika iziphumo ekuhambeni okuthelekiswayo ne-microdermabrasion: amancinci amancinane aya kushiya, ulusu luya kubonakala lutsha. Hlala unelisekile ngempembelelo, hamba i-acel peels zonke iinyanga ezintathu ukuya ezintandathu.

Ngaba ufuna ukuba umkhiqizo we-ANA ungadumanga? Gcina ezinye iingcebiso ezintathu:

1. Faka isicelo "i-asidi" kwesikhumba esomileyo - amanzi aphelelanga umphumo walo.
2. Zama ukuthenga ama-creams okanye ahlambulukileyo kwi-ANA kuma-pharmacy. Kukho amathuba amaninzi okufumana iimveliso kunye nokuxininiswa okufanelekileyo kwezinto ezisetyenziswayo.
3. Isicwangciso sokunakekelwa kwekhaya elifanelekileyo kufuneka sibe: i-krimu yosuku kunye ne-cleaner kunye ne-ANA, nobusuku kunye nokunakekelwa kwamehlo - ngaphandle kwabo.

Imisebenzi esemthethweni yeVNA
Ngaphambi kwakho, abadlali abanobuchule banesikhumba sengxaki. Ezi zixhobo zine-acedonolytic ne-anti-inflammatory properties. Ngenxa ye-lipophilicity yabo, banokuthi bathathwe ngqo kwii-pores kunye neentloko zezinwele, apho ziqhelisa khona ukungcola kunye neeseli ezifile kwaye zibulale amabhaktheriya anomsundu. Abameli abadumileyo beli qela - i-salicylic acid kunye ne-resorcin - unokufumana kwisakhiwo malunga nantoni na eyenziwe kwi-acne.

Isistim
Ukuba ulusu lwakho luhlobo olutyebileyo, kwaye luyakwazi ukutshitshiswa, ngaphandle kokungabaza, iya kubahlambululi kunye nomxholo we-salicylic (i-0.5 ukuya ku-2%) kunye ne-resorcinol (1 ukuya kwi-3%). Ngeengxaki ezicacileyo ebusweni, iipelisi ne-salicylic acid ziboniswa. Yenza kuphela kwi-cabin, kuba ukuxinwa kwezinto ezisetyenziswayo apha kuya kuba nzima kakhulu, kuya kufinyelela, kwaye ngamanye amaxesha kudlule i-25%. Inkqubo enzulu yinkqubo emihlanu ukuya kweyeshumi, kanye emva kweeveki ezimbini.

Kwaye unako ngeveki wenze imaski kunye ne-2% ye-salicylic acid. Ngexesha lokuqala, gcina imveliso ebusweni bakho ngokungabi ngaphezu kweminithi kwaye uyalila lo mhla kwimali kunye ne-retinol.