Namhlanje, ngaphezu kwanini ngaphambili, imimoya ibangele umdla kwaye ivuselele ukuthanda, kuba ngosuku ngalunye oludlulayo luya kuba luhluke ngakumbi kwaye lucacisiwe. Iimpumulelo kubo bonke abantu kunye nokukhetha okukhethayo, ukusa kusasa kunye nobusuku obuhle. IRoma yindlela yokuqonda ihlabathi. Ngamnye wethu unama-cell sensory 5 (okwenene, xa kuthelekiswa nenja enezigidi ezingama-200, nto leyo), esenza sikwazi ukuyiqonda yonke into evuyisayo yomsindo wokunuka. Kuya kuba buhlungu ukuba ungayisebenzisi. Kwaye kwiminyaka emininzi, uluntu aluzange luthabathele ukuzonwabisa okunjalo: iinqwelo ezinxilisayo zokunxibelelana nemimoya, i-aromas eqinile kunye ne-musky, igxobhoze iphunga lokufa, iziqhumane eziqholiweyo eziqholiweyo kunye ne-marquis zithande iziqhumiso, zikwazi ukuthabatha nothando. Inkulungwane yeshumi elinamibini yajika abaqholi bee-master master: imimoya yaqala ukwenza, njengokuba umculi ubonisa umfanekiso. Abanobuchule kakhulu baye baqonda ubugcisa obungaqondakaliyo, ngenxa yezonwele ezinqabileyo, abavela kwi-Grass kunye ne-iris yaseTuscany yaba yintlobo engapheliyo.
Iphunga elinobuchule
Lo mfuli kufuneka abe ngumculi, umkhandi kwaye abe nokunyamezela: ukuze uchonge kwaye udibanise ama-flavours angaphezu kwama-150 kunye ne-3000 evumelanisiweyo, kubalulekile ukuba ufunde iminyaka elishumi. Ngokuphathelele ukuqeqeshwa kobugcisa. Italente enye ibali. Oku akunakufundiswa. Abaninzi babizwa, abakhethiweyo abancinci kunye nama-virtuosos ambalwa, abo amagama abo anxulumene neendwendwe ezidumileyo. Kuthatha inyanga, kwaye ngamanye amaxesha, ukudala ifom yefrivour. Injongo isoloko ifana: yenza i-flavour "yokunyanzelisa", engenakulibala. Njengomnye wodumo "owaziwayo" u-Eduard Rudnitska uthi, "imimoya emihle yilezo ozoyikhathazayo." Iipipettes, iibhotile ze-perfume, iifragi zokuphonononga ukuvumba kunye nencwadana-ezi zixhobo zomntu oqhumiselayo oza kusebenza ngeenyanga ukuhambisa, ngoncedo lobumnandi, iindimu ezinikwe kuye ukuphuhlisa. Kuya kuthatha amakhulu ovavanyo kunye nenani elikhulu lokudibanisa ukufumanisa okokufunayo. Ngomxube oyigugu, iinxalenye zazo ezilinganiselwe kwizikali zecomputer, yenza ingqalelo. Ukugxila kugxininiswa kwiiveki eziliqela - ngeli xesha ama-aromas afika kwisilinganiso kunye nomnye - aze ahlanjululwe ngotywala. Isigaba sokuqala kwe-maceration siqala, ngelixesha apho iphunga lifana newayini, livuthwe kwiibhokhwe ezizodwa, kwaye ke ikhululekile kwisityalo esikhulu ngokuqhwala. Kuvela i-crystalline liquid, ebhotile kwiibhotile.
Ubuntu obomvu
Ngendlela, malunga nebhotile. Okumangalisayo kukuba, ukuvumba akusiyo yonke into. Ungatsho nokuba akunjalo ngaso sonke isikhathi ingxabano ekunqumeni ngexesha lokuthenga. Impembelelo yokuqala, isishukumisele ukuba sizame ezi zinto, kungekhona eminye imimoya, igama elivusa iphupha okanye ibhotile enhle efana ne-jewel. Ngako oko kuyimfuneko yokufumana amagama afanelekileyo, umfanekiso womlingo kunye nezinto ezikhangayo ezinokubonisa "ubuntu" beqhumiso elitsha. Ngokomzekelo, u-Emilio Valeros, umvumba we-brand yaseSpeyin uLoveve, udla ngokuqala ukudala iphunga xa kuphela umgaqo uphuhliswa ngokupheleleyo: uyilo lwebhotile kunye nephulo lokukhangisa.
Izipho zendalo
Ubugcisa bokudala iziqhumiso kuqala kwaye kubaluleke kakhulu "ikhitshi" ngokumangalisayo yokuxuba izithako ezinamatheko ezivela kwimvelaphi eyahlukileyo, yemvelo okanye eyenziweyo. Uninzi lweziqhumiso zindlu azikhethi ukonga, kodwa ama-aromas ahlanganisiweyo. Kuphela uKhanel, uJean Patou, uGuerlain, iDoror banezityalo zabo zentyatyambo kwaye benza izimbali. Abameli abakhulu beeflora, ezisetyenziselwa ukwenza "i-elixirs magic": ngoMeyi naseDamasko roses, jasmine, iris Florentine - iingubo zangempela zobuncwane. Emva koko, ukulima nokuvuna kwezi "sissies" ngumsebenzi onzima, ngoko ke iimveliso eziluhlaza zibiza kakhulu. Zininzi iintlobo zemithi, apho iifenitshala zeenkuni ezithandekayo kunye nezesebenzi zenziwe, nazo zisetyenziselwa ngabaqhumisi. Izixhobo zifunyenwe kwimisedare yaseMoroccan, ivukile okanye i-sandalwood. Ngaphandle kwe-vetiver kunye neembotyi ezincinci, ezingasetyenziselwa ukutya, kwibhubhoratri ye-perfumer unokufumana zonke ezo ziqhumiso ezibukhali, ezivuthayo kunye nezongezelelekileyo ezongeza i-spice kwiitya zethu. Ngoko, i-safari, i-sinamoni, i-turmeric, i-vanilla, i-caraway kunye ne-cloves inxaxheba ekudaleni iindawo eziphambili zokuziqhelanisa zasempumalanga (amber). I-sameberg ye-gray isberg "yendalo" ekhethekileyo yenkomo yamademoni, leyo leyo, xa ikhule i-octopus enamafutha kunye nokunyaniseka, yiphonsa imveliso yokutya. Le nkunkuma ilula ngaphezu kwamanzi inokudada ixesha elide phezu kolwandle. I-ambergris ebanjwe imisiwe iintsuku eziliqela kude kube yiphunga elimnandi liyabhubha, ukunika i-flavored idiodised. Le nkunkuma ixabiswa kakhulu ngabantu abasebenzisa i-perfumers kwaye isetyenziswe njengendlela yokulungisa i-aromas yamanqaku ephezulu.
Nahimichi
Izitshizi zeMichiza azichasani zendalo, kodwa zizalisekisa, zivumela ukuba ziguqule iparlet of perfumers ngonaphakade. Kule minyaka eyi-100 edlulileyo, ihlabathi leqhumiso liye laphuculwa ngaphezu kwe-2000 lwenziwa ngobungakanani bendalo. I-chemistry yeziqholo, eziye zaphuhliswa ukususela ekuqaleni kwenkulungwane ye-XIX, zibonise ukuba izikhenkce zokwenza izinto ziveliswa ngokwemvelo ngokwazo. Xa siphunga isiphunga se-rose, sithandwa ngumfutho wezithako ezingaphezulu kwama-300, phakathi kwazo iincwadi ze-violet, i-lemon, i-anise, kunye namaxesha amabhanana kunye ne-vanilla. Oku kufunyenweyo kwavumela ukuba i-parfumery ikhule kwizinga elitsha. Ngokomzekelo, i-molecule kunye nevumba le-hay (i-coumarin eyaziwayo) kwiimbotyi zazingekho. Izinto ezintsha zokurhweba zivumela izindlu zokuqhumisa ukukhusela iindleko ezinkulu: i-kilogram yemvelo ye-jasmine ekhulile kwi-Grasse iindleko malunga nama-euro angama-23,000, kunye ne-kilo ye-gedion (i-synthetic derivative, ekhoyo ikakhulukazi e-Eau Sauvage, iDoror) i-euro ezingama-30. Iziphumo ezifunyenwe ziphefumlele abaphandi ukuba benze izinto ezinamakha kwizinto ezihlawulekayo. Ngaba umntu unokucinga ukuba kwioli okanye ngamalahle ungaphinda uhlaziye ama-aromas afanelekanga njenge-aromas, i-jasmine, i-hay, i-hyacinth kunye nama-strawberries?
Yintoni abafazi abayifunayo?
Ukukhetha i-perfume, ibhinqa lifuna ukuqhumisa ukubonakalisa ubuntu bakhe kwaye "ukuthetha" kuhambelana nomfanekiso wakhe. I-flavors yaseMpuma, umzekelo ohlaziyiweyo lwe-Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle. I-Dior, cebisa i-sensual, inomdla kwaye ilungele intombazana yothando. Ubungqina bunikezwa yi-"Oriental Gourmet" engaqondakaliyo eyenziwa ngo-1992 yiNgelosi nguTherry Mugler, osengumxholo wokudumisa abalandeli bakhe. Ukungabi nantlontlonipho kunye novelwano kubonakala ngephunga elimnandi le-lily Anais, uAnais, iCacharel. Isiqhumiso esitsha esivela e-Escada, ngokuqinisekileyo, sinomkhwa wokukhangela umntu ongenakulinganiswa kwaye onwabileyo ongazitshintshi. Iphunga eliqhumayo likaHerve Leger Femme elivela kwi-AVON lizalisa umfanekiso wesicatshulwa esinobugcisa kunye nesibindi. Kodwa ukudlala kunye nokutya kwimivuzo ekuqhubeni uchungechunge lwe "intonwabo" evela ku-Estee Lauder. Iphunga eliqhambileyo eliqhamo leentyantyambo I-Pleasures Bloom iya kubonisa uvuyo lweentsuku ezingenamdla. Ewe, ekugqibeleni, yintoni intombazana ephupha ngayo? Ewe, ukuva amazwi athandekileyo: "Masitshatile!". Iingcebiso kubaphathi bexesha elizayo: i-romantic and romance andromaous smell of Marry me from Lanvin, iya kuba luncedo olukhulu xa unquma ukwenza isipho kumthandi wakho.