Imbali
Imbali yemimoya iqala kwixesha elidlulileyo. Abantu sele befumene iipropati ezingavamile zevumba elingazenzayo. Ngamaxesha amandulo, ngexesha lemicimbi, ababingeleli boothixo bobuhedeni babatshisa utshani, iingcambu zezityalo kunye neentyantyambo ezinkukhu. Baye bakholelwa ukuba umsi o "mnandi" unokubeka onkulunkulu kuwo, kwaye udale imimoya emfihlelo kunye nokungenakwenzeka kwezinto ezenzekayo. Nangona kunjalo, isiqhumiso sasixabiswa ngaphandle kweetempile.
Abantu bokuqala ukwenza iphunga elivumbayo inxalenye yenkcubeko yabo yayingamaYiputa. Bayihlambela imizimba yabo ngamafutha kunye namafutha okuvumba kwamanamoni okanye ubusi. Kwaye lezi ziqholo zazibiza kakhulu kangangokuthi kwaziwa kuphela. Indlovukazi engummangaliso uKleopatra wayala ukuba aphephe iinqanawa zeempahla zakhe ngemimoya, ukwenzela ukuba ukuvumba kwaphezulu kwakummemezele ukuba afike.
KwiPersia, phakathi kwezityebi, kwakucatshangelwa indlela efanelekileyo yokukhula iidolets, i-jasmine, iinduli kunye nee-roses ebomvu kwiigadi zabo, ukuze zisebenzise ukwenza isiqhumiso. Kungenxa yamaPersi ukuba sinomsebenzi wokuveliswa kwamanzi ase-rose. AmaGrike amandulo azama ukwenza iziqulatho ezivela kumanci ahlukeneyo aze abhale iirephepheni zawo, achaze ukuba zeziphi izityalo ezivelisa izipho. Kwaye amaRoma ayigcoba ubuso bawo, emva koko atyeba ioli ecolekileyo. NgeMinyaka Ephakathi, igrume elimnandi lalisetyenziselwa ukugcoba ivumba elimnandi elivela ngenxa yokuhlanjululwa kococeko. Kwaye ke loo moya yomoya otywalayo yenziwa ngokusetyenzwa kotywala kunye namafutha abalulekileyo, awaziwa kuthi ngoku kwaye asetyenziswe kwi-perfume.
Ixesha lidlulileyo, kodwa i-perfume eyahlukileyo yaqhubeka yinto eyaziwayo. Kuyaziwa ukuba uNapoleon Bonaparte wayemthanda kakhulu iphunga le-jasmine ne-violets. Yaye yaguqulela umntu wakhe onesithsaba ngomhla ukuya kwi-12 ilitha yeqhumiso. Kwaye kwakungekho yinto elula. UMlawuli wayekholelwa ukuba iphunga elimnandi limnceda ukulawula ngokufanelekileyo ukulwa. Kwaye, ngaphandle koko, kwimikhankaso yezempi wayesebenzisa iifumba ze-disinfection. Ngendlela, ngo-1804 wasungula inkampani yokuqala kunye ne-cosmetics yenkampani waza wazakhela amanzi anqabileyo, awabiza ngokuba yindlu yangasese.
Ubaba weengqungquthela zanamhlanje uFrancois Coty. Wayeyena nje "impumlo" enobungcali, kodwa kunye nomrhwebi omhle. Wayenalo mbono wokuthengisa iziqhumiso kwizibilini ezintle, kwaye kungekhona kwiindawo ezilula ze-apothecary. Kwakhona waqala ukudibanisa iphunga lemvelo ngefowuni yokuqala okokuqala. Ngoko ngo-1917 i-"roma "yaseCypre yaqulunqwa, eyayizisa udumo lwelizwe likaKoti. Namhlanje inkqubo yezobuchwepheshe ivumela ukuba kusetshenziswe iziqhamo ezintle kakhulu. Ekuthengiseni kuza inani elikhulu lemimoya, kwaye ukukhetha "zabo" kunzima kakhulu. Kodwa siya kuzama ukuqonda le ntlukwano.
Khetha i-perfume
Xa ukhetha iphunga elimnandi, kufuneka kuqala kuqala ukuba ukhumbule ukuba umntu ngamnye unomzimba "wechemistry". Oku kuthetha ukuba loo mimoya oyithandayo "kwintombazana", inokungafani ncam ekhanda lakho. Umgubo kufuneka ukhethwe ngabanye. Ukunika apha iziphakamiso kunzima kunzima, kodwa kukho imigaqo ejwayelekile.
Iingcali azicebisi ukuza kwivenkile nokuzama konke. Akunakwenzeka ukuba ngale ndlela izokukunceda wenze ukhetho olufanelekileyo. Unokuvavanya iziqulatho zezilwanyana ezintathu. Ngaphandle koko, "uyaphonsa", udideke uze ungabi nantoni na okufunayo.
Ukuzifefa ngemimoya, qiniseka ukuhamba nabo ixesha elithile, ukuze iphunga livule ngokupheleleyo. Ngaphandle koko, kwesikhumba sakho, kunokutshintsha okufutshane. Kwaye ufuna ukugxila kwi "train", kuba uya kuhamba nawe yonke imini.
Ingqungquthela yokubumba ihlanganiswe kumgaqo wesithathu: inqaku lokuqala (okanye ngaphezulu), inqaku eliphambili (okanye inqaku lentliziyo), kunye nenqaku lesiseko (okanye "loop"). Emva kokusebenzisa amanqaku ngokuthe ngcembe atshintshe omnye nomnye, kunye neqhumiso njengoko "livula".
Kungcono kakhulu ukubeka izithambathiso ezininzi ngeemeko ezahlukeneyo kunye neziganeko ezahlukeneyo. Ngendlela, ungafunda inkcazo kumaphephancwadi, iincwadana zokuthengisa okanye iiKhathalogu. Kukho rhoqo kunikwa iinkcazo zemeko yeqhumiso: isithandane, i-sporty, icocwe njalo njalo. Mhlawumbi baya kukuxelela ukuba yiphi iphunga lokukhetha ukudala umfanekiso othile.
Kwakhona, akunakulungele ukuthobela ingqalelo kwipakethe kunye negama. Ngokuqhelekileyo ukucwangciswa kweqhumiso (ngokukodwa umbala) kuhambelana nomlingisi walo. Ukuziqhelanisa kubonisa ukuba kunzima ukuhlangabezana nomphunga womoya we-citrus ebhokisini elimnyama.
Ukuba uthanda iziqhumiso, khumbula umenzi. Mhlawumbi nawe uya kuthanda iifriphu zayo ezintsha, njengoko ezinye izinto ezinjengomkhweli omnye okanye umqambi angathanda.
Siyisebenzisa ngokunenzuzo
Ngoku ngamagama ambalwa malunga nokusebenzisa. Iimimoya zibeka ngaphakathi kwiimbumba kunye nezikhwebu, emva kweendlebe, kwi-decollete nangaphantsi kwamadolo-ke isiphunga "siza kubomi" kunye nentshukumo yonke oyenzayo. Unokuthi udibanise iinwele zakho (ngokukhethekileyo kakuhle kwiitshizi zigcinwe ngamanzi angasese) okanye iimpahla (kuphela zicocekile - zingase zihlale zilahla). Kubalulekile ukukhumbula ukuba inani lemimoya lixhomekeke apho uya kuba khona. Akukufanelekanga ukuba ube neqholi elikhulu kwigumbi elincinci. Kwaye ngokuqhelekileyo, ukubetha empumleni, nokuba kukuhle kuzo zonke iindawo, iphunga libhekwa njengoluhlobo olubi. Yaye ungakulibali ukuba ukukhupha kuqinisa i-fragrance. Ngoko ke, ukuba kushushu kwindawo okanye kwisitalato, sebenzisa umoya ngokucophelela, mhlawumbi wonk 'ubani uya kubaleka.
Ukusebenzisa i-perfume efanayo, ekugqibeleni uyayifumana kwaye uyeke ukuphawula. Kwaye ke awukwazi ukuqonda ukuba unamandla okanye unobuthakathaka. Ngako oko, nangona ngamanye amaxesha imimoya kufuneka ishintshwe ukuze ifumane inxalenye encinane kwintlaka efunwayo. Kodwa ke, ngokuqinisekileyo, unokubuyela kuyo.
Gcina i-perfume ibhetele kwipakethe, mhlawumbi kwindawo epholileyo. Kodwa kulungile ukuba ubeka iibhotile kwietafile zokugqoka egumbini. Into ephambili - ukuba kwakungashushu. Emva kwakho konke, ukusuka ekushiseni nasekukhanyeni kwelanga, imimoya ihla kakhulu ngokukhawuleza - oku kubonakaliswa ngephunga elitshintshileyo nombala. Awukwazi kwakhona ukugcina amabhola kwindawo yokuhlambela. Kukho rhoqo ukushisa kweqondo lokutshintsha, kwaye oku kuzisa okubhalwe kwiibhotile ezintle. Ukuba awuqinisekanga ukuba uya kuhlutha, ungathengi iibhotile ezinkulu. Amanzi anamnandi awakwazi "ukuhlala" ngonaphakade, ngoko kuya kuba nesihe ukuba iphunga elibi libi, kwaye "lingenasendle".
Yaye ungakulibali ukuba i-perfume yamhlanje iyindlela yokuzibonakalisa. Iyakuchukumisa kakhulu indlela oqondwa ngayo ngabanye. Iimimoya zinokukwenza ukuba ukhangeleke emehlweni abantu, okanye ziyakwazi ukuphazamisa yonke ingqiqo. Ngako oko, khumbula ukuba ekusebenziseni amanzi anomsindo, njengokuba kukho konke okuchaphazela ukubonakala kwakho, kufuneka kube nokuthatha, ukumodareyitha kunye namava. Akusiyo into abayithethayo yokuba ukudala umfanekiso ngoncedo lobumnandi bubungcali boqobo.
Iintlobo zePhunga
Kukho ezininzi iintlobo zamaqhumiso. Nangona kunjalo, kuyinkcubeko yokwahlula amaqela angundoqo alandelayo.
Iziqhamo zeCitrus. Imveliso yabo, ioli ephuma kwilamula, isi-mandarin, i-orange, i-grapefruit, i-bergamot kunye nezinye iziqhamo ezifanayo. Ezi nambatho zivame ukukhanya nokutsha.
Floral. Ngegama, unokuqiqa ukuba isiseko sivumba seentyatyambo: ivukile, i-carnation, i-lily, i-narcissus, i-violet, i-lily yentlambo, i-jasmine nabanye. Iimoya ezinjalo zihlala zizintombi kwaye zithandwa.
Umthi. Ivumba eliphambili liyi-sandalwood, i-rose bush, i-patchouli, imisedare, i-vetiver. Zihlala zixutyaniswa kunye namanqaku e-blue iris, i-myrtle ne-musk. Iimoya zolu hlobo zinzima kakhulu.
IiFerns (iiglasi zewayini) . Kuyaphawuleka ukuba izityalo zasendulo azihlangani nantoni yoo hlobo, kwaye zithiwa ngefrigue Fougere Royale. Kwakusekelwe kwintshisi ye-hay ehlanjululwe ngokutsha (ukucola i-coumarin yobuthakathaka bokusebenza, esetyenziswe kwinkqubo yokuvelisa). Ngokuqhelekileyo ezi zimoya zine-flavour yogurt. U-Kumarin uvame ukuxutywa kunye neenkcukacha zegeranium, i-lavender, ukhuni, i-bergamot kunye ne-oak moss.
Shipry. Igama leli qela laphuma kwisiqhumiso "isiCypre" nguFrançois Coty, malunga nokuba sele sithetha ntoni. Isekelwe kwivumba le-oak, apho kufakwe amanqaku e-libdanum, i-patchouli, i-resin, i-sage, i-bergamot.
Ambreous (empumalanga, okanye empuma) . Iimoya zolu hlobo ziqaqambile kwaye zinamandla, zijongwa ngokuhlwa. Ziqhumisa nge powder, vanilla, sinamon, iziqholo, kwaye ziquka oko kuthiwa "amanqaku ezilwanyana".
Isikhumba. Eli qela lininzi leqhumiso lomntu. Iphunga eliphambili: umjunipha, i-birch tar, umsi, umthi ovuthayo, ucuba.
Iintlobo ezininzi eziphambili ze-flavour ziquka inani elikhulu lamanqumana. Ukongezelela, kukho ezinye iintlobo. Ngokomzekelo, iziqhamo, eziluhlaza, olwandle, iziqholo, i-aldehyde . I-latter (aldehyde) yimizi yeciksi, yenziwe ngamakha evelele. Umzekelo omhle kakhulu we-aldéhyde iphunga yiChanel No. 5.
Kwakhona, ama-flavour ahlukaniswe kwiintlobo kuxhomekeke kwi-concentration, echaphazela ukuphikelela kweqhumiso. Ephakamileyo ipesenteji, isisigxina ngakumbi, incinci iyadingeka xa isetyenziswa:
- I-Perfume (i-perfume, i-extrait) - ingxube ye-20-30%.
- I-Perfume amanzi, i-perfume yamanzi (i-eau de parfum, i-Parfum de Toilette, i-Esprit de parfum) - ingxube ye-15-25%.
- I-Toilet amanzi (amanzi de Toilette) - ingxube ye-10-20%.
Ngokumalunga neqhumiso, iziqhumiso, imbali yemimoya, izicaphuno kunye neengxelo malunga nemimoya ixelelwa kwaye ibhaliwe kakhulu. Kodwa ngokucacileyo kwaye ngokuthe ngqo uthetha ngeemimoya zeCoco Chanel: "Isiqhelo singabonakali, kodwa singenakulibaleka, singenakulinganiswa, sithengiso. Uvakalisa ukubonakala komfazi kwaye uyaqhubeka emkhumbuza xa ehamba. "