Ukuphikisana kuka-Elsa Schiaparelli noCoco Chanel

Kwimbali-nkcukacha zembali-festile, inqaku eliphambili le-thirties yintlano phakathi kuka-Elsa Schiaparelli noCoco Chanel. Olu mbambano lweentlobo ezimbini ezikwintsimi yefashoni luye lwabamba kwaye lususa iingqondo zabaninzi.

Nangona bobabini abasetyhini belichasene ngokupheleleyo, babemanyene neetalente ezingenakunqwenela kunye nomnqweno wokuvelisa omtsha kunye omhle kwimfashini. Yayiyiphi inkxalabo yabalweli, yintoni isizathu sayo, njengoko kwachazwa?

U-Elsa wayengumsekeli okhuselekileyo we-surrealism, kunye noKoko bakhetha iiklasi. USchiaparelli wazama ukugxininisa umntu ngamnye, amandla omoya. UChanel wagxininisa ubuhle bomzimba. Iimpawu zikaGabriel zaye zahluke ngokuhambelana nesitayela, iimpahla zakhethwa ngeetoni ezithambileyo eziphantsi. Iimodeli zika-Elsa zinyusa, zenziwe ngezinto zokunethezeka, zisetyenziselwa ukutyekiswa koluntu. Ngelixa iChanel yazisa i-classic suit ngeefowuni zegolide, i-Schiaparelli yanikela ngeengubo ze-sari, i-appliqués ngendlela yezilwanyana, iifowuni-zemali, iintsimbi ezivela kwiinambuzane zeplastiki. Imvelaphi yayihluke. U-Elsa Schiaparelli wayengowokubusa kwe-aristocracy, isangqa sobudlelwane bakhe sasinobuhle baseFransi. U-Koko wayengumlondolozi wentsapho elula, kwaye umnyango wasemphakathini ophakamileyo wamyalelwa.

Ukuphikisana phakathi kuka-Elsa Schiaparelli kunye noCoco Chanel ngenxa yesicatshulwa somlawuli wefashini oyintloko abazange bahlale behlala kwimidiya yefowuni. Thatha le meko, ubuncinane. Kwesinye samkeleko, uGabrielle, onomusa, wanikela uElsa isitulo esasigubile. Ngexesha elifanayo, uKoko waphawula ukuba kuya kuzuza kuphela kumbambano oqaqambileyo, odibeneyo. USchiaparelli akazange ahlale e matyala. Ngokuqhelekileyo, wabonakalisa isimo sakhe sengqondo kwi-caricature yaseChanel kwizinto zakhe ezintsha.

Abaqambi befestile bahlala bethandana ngokususela kwimodeli nakubathengi. Ngoko ukusuka eKoko ukuya ku-Elze, uJason Fellows noGala Dali baleka. Kwakhona la mabhinqa abeka imiyalelo yabo kwiindawo ezifanayo. UGabrielle wabiza uElsa "umculi owenza iingubo zokugqoka." Kodwa akazange ayeke ukudweba iingcamango "zomculi" ngomsebenzi wakhe. Kwiqoqo likaChanel, imibala ecacileyo engavumelekanga kulo mntu ogcinwe.

Kunzima ukufumanisa ukuba ngubani lo mkhosi. Emva koko, akunakwenzeka ukucacisa umlinganiselo wempembelelo yokuba ubugcisa bobu buntu obuvelele buye kwaqhubeka nokuphuhliswa kwefashoni. Kodwa into enyanisekileyo, kwi-thirties ethandwa kakhulu ngu-Elsa Schiaparelli. Iingubo zakhe zazikhethwa ngabadlali baseHollywood. Kwakuyimifanekiso yakhe yesifazana eyathatha indawo yamashumi amabini anesibini. Kodwa iCoco yaba yinkqubo yeklasi yexesha. U-Els unokubizwa ngokuba ngumphuphi kunye nomculi.

Kodwa ekugqibeleni, ukhuphiswano phakathi kuka-Elsa Schiaparelli noCoco Chanel lwaphela ekuxolelaneni. U-Elsa wahamba ngokucokisekileyo. Emva kokudala iqoqo lokugcina, uSchiaparelli washada kwaye ngokukhawuleza "washiya umncintiswano" kuqala. Inzondelelo ebanzi yokudityaniswa kwemigomo iphelile. Kwafika amaxesha amatsha, izinto ezithandwayo. Kwaye kunye nabo, kunye namaqhawe amasha: uChristian Dior, uCoco Chanel. I-Christian Dior ebizwa ngokuba yimbangela yokuhamba kuka-Elsa. Iingcamango zakhe ezitsha zazingqubuzana zombini. Yaye uSchiaparelli noYangel baphoqeleka ukuba bathengise izindlu zabo.

Kodwa uhambo luka-Elsa aluzange luchaze ukuthobela. Ubugcisa bakhe behlala kwimbali yefashoni. Iimodeli zakhe zaphefumlela abakhi beefestile abaninzi: UVivienne Westwood, uJean Paul Gaultier, uJohn Galliano, uBiba, uFranco Moschino. Izinto ezidalwe nguSchiaparelli zazingaphambi kwexesha labo. Indalo yakhe yayimfashini kwi-thirties, kuma-fiftyties, ayasebenza namhlanje.

UCoco Chanel wakwazi ukwenza inguqulelo kwiingqondo zezigidi. Wawakhulula abafazi kwi-corsets, wanika abafazi abamnyama umbala, okwenza kube ngumqondiso wokulila, kodwa uphawu lobuhle, unqunywe iinwele, ubaphumule.

Ngubani ophumelele kwingxabano ka-Elsa Schiaparelli okanye iCoco Chanel - akunakwenzeka ukuthetha. Kodwa kuphela iCoco yangena kwibali, kwaye uElsa wayengekho into engayikulibala.